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The Whale
Routes Sorted
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Aborigine S 
Among the Stars S 
Aphrodite S 
Arapiles S 
ArnoldÂ’s Demise S 
Big E S 
Blow Tube Envy S 
Bound in Blood S 
Captain, The S 
Dreamtime S 
Esse Curve S 
Finnacle S 
First Mate S 
Gomers in Blue Shirts S 
Good Stuff, The S 
Happy Ending (formerly Top-Rope) T,TR 
HMS S 
Honeymoon Down Under S 
Just Happens S 
Mister MIA S 
Never Ever Slab, The TR 
Plunge, The S 
Red Venus S 
Route to the left of The Thin Line S 
Tempest Toast S 
Thin Line, The S 
Undulating Dingo S 
Virgin Bolters S 
Whale Rider S 

Tempest Toast 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stewart Green, Martha Morris, and Mike Heinrichs, September 2004
Page Views: 1,560
Submitted By: Livia on Jul 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Lee Rittenmeyer on Tempest Toast.

Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the guidebook: Another great moderate. Climb a slab to a finishing headwall.

Location 

From guidebook: Reach the face by hiking south from where the north cliff access trail reaches the cliff. Hike along the cliff-base until the trail crosses a low angle slab shaded by a large juniper tree.

Routes #7 to #11 were described as: below a clean slab composed of two different sandstone layers.

Other notes: This route is the 11th developed route on the Whale and number #11 in the guidebook.

Addendum: there is a crux move near the top that will be harder for shorter climbers.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Per Paul Vervalin: the anchor bolts have been moved up. It is now ~110'.


Photos of Tempest Toast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gabby following Tempest Toast.
Gabby following Tempest Toast.
Rock Climbing Photo: Diana leading near the short leftward traverse at ...
Diana leading near the short leftward traverse at ...

Comments on Tempest Toast Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Craig
Apr 2, 2008

A bit tougher and more interesting than Whale Rider. I'd give TT a 7 and WR a 6.
By Paul Vervalin
Oct 19, 2014

WARNING!!! The anchor bolts have been moved up on this route. It is no longer an 80' route. Probably closer to 105' - 110'. A 60m rope will leave you 5-10 feet short of the bottom depending on rope stretch. Not a bad down climb but it would suck to fall that last 5 feet or so if you rapped off the end of your rope.
By Cody E
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 4, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Just like the description above - it's fun, moderate, slab climbing. Lots of great routes to the left and right as well. Solid anchors atop.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 27, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Nice route, but the first bolt is 25 feet off the ground. A slip before clipping the first bolt would possibly be an ankle breaker due to ledges. Not too difficult, but the grit on the rock or a breaking hold could cause an unexpected fall.

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