Temperance V5
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| Type: | Boulder, 14 feet |
| Consensus: | V5 [details] |
| FA: | Dana Seaton/Mark Sprague |
| Submitted By: | Dana Seaton on Mar 10, 2012 |
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Chris about to send
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Description The left arete of the tall overhanging north side. Sit down under the arete with your right hand on a good edge and left pinching the arete (double pad if you wish if you are short). Work up the arete until you can pop for the good hold in the seam running across the top of the nose. Top out. The upper flake has not been reinforced, so try not to be too brutal with it.
Location The left arete of the overhanging north face
Protection pad
BETA PHOTO: Temperance
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its a go
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By marctroob
Mar 18, 2012
| This problem is worth the Trip out the Found Boulder alone!! |
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Mar 20, 2012
| Super sick problem! Ryan has a video of it he should share. |
By RyanCahill
Mar 29, 2012
| Not sure how to get the video to show up in the comment box but this will do i guess. ****warning**** IPhone footage
youtu.be/3t22osEhi-8 |
By Joe M.
Mar 30, 2012
| Is this problem not a sit start??? |
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Apr 2, 2012
| its a rock climb. |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 2, 2012
| LOL. We'll have to install a pressure plate to record if people reeally fully sit down enough, and send the data in to NEB. |
By Joe M.
Apr 3, 2012
| If a problem says its a sit start, then sit down. Really, is following directions that hard??? |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 3, 2012
| I wasn't too concerned if people sat with full weight on their butts, Joe. That is why I said double stack if you are short. A true butt sit on the ground would entail starting on lower holds for most people, which makes the problem kind of ugly. Starting with your butt a half an inch over the pad or not is not the crux of the problem, though I will give you it may make it 1% easier. If you want to have fun making it harder, start with you right hand on the big flake to the right and work over to the arete, or don't use the high horizontal left of the arete, but head right instead and top out as for Leprechaun Hunt. |
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Apr 3, 2012
| HAHAHHA oh man....
Mark that line sounds like fun too! Thanks! |
By Joe M.
Apr 3, 2012
| Fair enough on this problem, but the tripod start thing has gotten ridiculous though. Recently, two kids claimed fast ascents of Neil's Nuts, a V11 on the Egg (sit start to Neil's Nose). I asked one of them for beta and it turns out they sent it using a tripod start which skips the very, very hard crux sit start first move. The problem is like V8 without that first move, yet the kid continues to claim that he sent V11 (despite having sent only one V9 prior to this). |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 3, 2012
| No sponsership for them! I fixed the Neil's Nuts description for you, Joe... or maybe the route should just be defined by the starting holds and downgraded. |
By S. Neoh
Apr 3, 2012
| Funny thread.
The start holds are clearly marked in the Beta photo.
I think Joe or Mark needs to add an "upper back on the ground" start to this (with different start holds of course) and other problems. Full value. |
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