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Telluride/Norwood area

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Ames Wall 
Bear Creek 
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Clay Creek Crag 
Cove, The 
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Gold Wall 
Hamilton 
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Mine Boulders, The 
Ophir 
Pipeline Wall 
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Rest Day:
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T35
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Telluride/Norwood area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.9392, -107.8163 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 67,466
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matthew Ver Eecke on May 30, 2007  with updates from perrotr
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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John Shewchuk bouldering near Telluride. Photo by ...

Description 

This is probably the most remote part of Colorado. It is a great place to find new climbs, escape the crowds of the crags close to the populus, and try a variety of great climbs.

Getting There 

Take I-70 to Grand Junction. Head south to Ouray, Telluride, Durango, Norwood, & Ridgeway.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.7 miles from here

177 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',32],['3 Stars',76],['2 Stars',52],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',10],['5.8',23],['5.9',24],['5.10',48],['5.11',34],['5.12',12],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',3],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',6],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Telluride/Norwood area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Telluride/Norwood area:
Family Values   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 4 pitches, 200'   The Falls Walls : Family Values
Pirouette   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Ophir : Cracked Canyon
Ame's Way   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 270'   Pipeline Wall
Chewbacca   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Ophir : Cracked Canyon
Skylight Arete   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Pipeline Wall
Hot Wee Wee   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Ophir Wall : Main Wall
Air Arete   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X     TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Ophir : Cracked Canyon
Orange Peel   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Ophir : Cracked Canyon
High Motivation   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Pipeline Wall
Javelin   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Ophir : Cracked Canyon
Dr. Gizmo   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Ophir Wall : Main Wall
Rocksteady   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Pipeline Wall
Cheeseburger in Paradise   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Ophir Wall : Main Wall
Y-Crack   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Ophir Wall : Main Wall
Cello   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Ophir : Cracked Canyon
Where Eagles Dare   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Ophir : Cracked Canyon
Tick Fever   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Ophir : Cracked Canyon
Whipping Post   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   Pipeline Wall
White Salamander   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Ophir Wall : Main Wall
Savelli Express   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 8 pitches, 600'   Ophir Wall : Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Telluride/Norwood area

Featured Route For Telluride/Norwood area
Rock Climbing Photo: The route's overhanging crux...

Cello 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CO : Telluride/Norwood area : ... : Cracked Canyon
This route shares the bolt anchors with the Javelin, 5.11a, which is a beautiful splitter hand crack in an overhanging wall. Cello follows a left-facing corner system to the left of the Javelin, which is about 75 feet from the mouth of canyon on the left wall.The crux start is quite overhanging, and is climbed with a mixture of sidepulls, underclings, and jams. Fiddling in good gear at the start is tough, so get an idea of the pieces you will need before you start out....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Telluride/Norwood area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick and John from T ride on a backyard stroll.
Nick and John from T ride on a backyard stroll.
Rock Climbing Photo: Peaks near Telluride from Bear Creek Canyon. Photo...
Peaks near Telluride from Bear Creek Canyon. Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: From El Diente toward Wilson.
From El Diente toward Wilson.
Rock Climbing Photo: Telluride, CO. Photo by Blitzo.
Telluride, CO. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Drew, bouldering Telluride.
Drew, bouldering Telluride.
Rock Climbing Photo: Aspen Forest near Telluride. Photo by Blitzo.
Aspen Forest near Telluride. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Telluride is located in the upper San Miguel River...
Telluride is located in the upper San Miguel River...
Rock Climbing Photo: Coronet Falls, Telluride. Photo by Blitzo.
Coronet Falls, Telluride. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising along the Telluride Via Ferrata on a beau...
Cruising along the Telluride Via Ferrata on a beau...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Wilson-storm. Photo by Blitzo.
Mt. Wilson-storm. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bear Creek Falls, Telluride. Photo by Blitzo.
Bear Creek Falls, Telluride. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Telluride in May, the slow season. Photo by Blitzo...
Telluride in May, the slow season. Photo by Blitzo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ames Ice Hose Telluride, Ophir Loop, CO area.
Ames Ice Hose Telluride, Ophir Loop, CO area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering near Telluride. Photo by Blitzo.
Bouldering near Telluride. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tride via ferrata.
Tride via ferrata.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Wilson. Photo by Blitzo.
Mt. Wilson. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kilpacker Creek toward El Diente & Wilson, June 20...
Kilpacker Creek toward El Diente & Wilson, June 20...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aspens. Photo by Blitzo.
Aspens. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moon over Pilot, late Nov. 2009.
Moon over Pilot, late Nov. 2009.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ajax Mountain at the east end of Telluride.
Ajax Mountain at the east end of Telluride.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bridal Veil in the summer.
Bridal Veil in the summer.

Comments on Telluride/Norwood area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Sawicki
From: Rocklin
Apr 25, 2011
I am looking for any information on the via ferrata in the Telluride area but haven't had any luck yet. Anybody able to help with that?

Thanks
By Bob Dobalina
May 6, 2011
It's located only a couple miles from Telluride and is visible from town. It traverses a large cliff wall below Ajax Peak on a continuos horizontal ledge system that is about 200-300 ft. up. You can access it from the left or right edge. Most of it is non-technical hiking, but sections with exposure have fixed cables to clip into.
There is one short section that has HUGE exposure were you climb around a corner on fixed ladder rungs with about 300 ft. of air under you.
Bring regular hiking shoes, a climbing harness, a couple long sling and locking biners, and a helmet.
It takes about 2-3 hrs to do the whole thing. Bring a camera... it's an amazingly beautiful setting!

P.S.- The ledge does go right above the Pipeline Wall cragging area. Please be very careful with loose rocks!!!
By Jeff Sawicki
From: Rocklin
May 20, 2011
Thank you very much for the info. Everybody seems hush hush about this, which I can understand, but I also feel that if somebody has made the effort to ask, they should be answered.
By Jonathan F
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 2, 2011
I am getting ready to move to Telluride for the winter season to work at the ski resort. I was wondering if there is any good indoor climbing gyms in the area. Can't wait to get covered in snow, but don't want to loose this climbing seasons progress. Thanks!
By Sean Dodge
May 25, 2013
Does anybody know what the guidebook for this area is?
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 25, 2013
There is an ?old Fowler guidebook?, Telluride Rocks that covers some of this area.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
May 25, 2013
Sean--

Currently, the guidebook for roped climbing in the area- 'Telluride Rocks'- is out of print. If you're interested in bouldering, you can find the guidebook that I wrote- 'A Guide To Bouldering In The Telluride & The West End Areas'- in many of the shops in town (and throughout Colorado).

I know there is a lot of interest in 'Telluride Rocks', so hopefully either Damon or myself will work towards printing a new batch sometime soon. In the meantime, make friends and borrow their copies! :)
By andrewmerrill
Oct 10, 2014
Anyone have beta on sport routes above and below the via's main event? Grades?
By jborof
Jan 28, 2015
Telluride Rocks is indeed out of print; however, there is a copy at the local shop called Jagged Edge on the east end of Main St. in Telluride. There is also a new topo poster of the Ophir Wall produced by Clay Wadman (a guy who made the El Cap, Half Dome, & Diamond posters), that is also available at
Jagged Edge. Most of the local climbing info is housed in that shop, so a stop by there is advisable if you're climbing in the area.

Many excellent sport routes exist in the Telluride Valley including a 10b (The Joker) that climbs out of the Main Event of the via ferrata and along the cliff below the VF and across the valley on the shady, north-facing walls. On the shady side's Umbrella Wall is the classic 5 pitch sport route called High Lonesome (11b/c).

Climbing in Ophir offers more trad routes and excellent multi-pitch climbing, although one must beware of loose rock.

Have fun out there, and be safe.
By Drew Megura
Apr 20, 2015
Anybody know of any good camping in this area?

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