This area is host to the best ice routes in Colorado: Bridalveil Falls, Ames Ice Hose and Ingraham Falls. All three are visible from afar, all are gorgeous and long and all are hard. Best of all, they are all classics. You can't lose here if the ice is in.
Telluride is now an expensive town to stay in but with all the local climbers, finding a place to doss is usually a good bet. Climbers seem to hang out at at the Last Dollar, Limegruber's, the Floradora, the Steaming Bean, or Sophio's.
For climbing gear, route beta and to hook up with local climbers, stop by the Telluride Mountaineer. Many of the climbs are approached via avalanche paths so if it dumps, bag the climbing, grab your boards and head up to the mountain for some turns. Beware, though, the local like the bumps and build 'em steep and tall.
From Montrose, take US Hwy 550 South to Ridgway, then Hwy 62 over Dallas Divide to Telluride.
For those seeking more pleasant accomodations that the back of a SUV or a tent, there are some barely tolerable prices here. Mountainside Inn in town, at the south end of twisty Davis St offers rooms in the $100/night range. There is a website for lodging. Note, remember this is a town where the cheapest studio runs $240K, a house downtown could run you $4.8M, and realtors help pay for first time, 1st home, home owners!
Wow, some things are pretty pricey here. In addition to the above, consider Fat Alley BBQ place on 122 S. Oak St; Pacific Street Pizza & Subs, 627 W. Pacific; the Baked in Telluride with pizza, sandwiches, salads at 127 S. Fir; Merle's Brown Bag Telluride, 126 W. Colorado; West End Tavern, 573 W. Pacific; Las Montanas, 453 W. Pacific; The Burger Bungalow, Mtn Village. Many places require dinner reservations.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Telluride:
Here is a fun moderate that feels like the Skylight on Campbird Road though with better rock, a huge avalanche gully above and below, and a much longer approach. Perhaps it is more like climbing The Ribbon. The upper face here gets lots of early morning sun. Grover Price and I climbed this May 5, 2013. After an exceptional spring freeze melt cycle.Has it been done before? Route documenter (Diamond Productions), long time all-around climber, Clay Wadman, who lives a mile from th...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
This just in from Clay Wadman in Telluride: Thin and steep with lots of snow. 0" in the last week or so, so significant avi danger. Micheal Gilbert thinks Bridalveil might be climbable but no one's going to try it for a bit. lots of other drips, very little touching. Another week or two.... Ames no-existent, whats up with that? Big question will Ingram touch down this year? Only forms about 30% of the winters.
Ames isn't non-existent, exactly... just a crucial 15 foot section on the top of the 2nd pitch. We attempted it on Saturday (12/1) - 1st pitch do-able on 100% rock, 3rd and 4th pitches are typical fat conditions, at least from visual inspection. The top 15 feet of the 2nd pitch chimney aren't climbable (by me, at least) right now... overhanging snow. The bottom of the 2nd pitch is still frightening in itself - took only one ice screw inside a sort of narrow cave in the back of the chimney, the only part of the pitch with ice more than 1".
What a waste of a drive from the Park! Thin & hollow is not the correct term. Anorexic Ice is more like it, and those rich folks have the clouds wired cuz they have got like 6 feet of snow since [Thanksgiving]. hugely slabbed out over marginal ice! A tiny hotel room cost over $125! half decent Beers are $5 each! Waste! waste! waste! of time and money! I am back to the Park & Vic where I am at least appreciated a little and have ice.
Everything in the [San Juans] is looking pretty sweet. I am also looking for a bent shaft adze Black Diamond Black Prophet. I don't care how used it is, and I will pay 100-120 bucks. firstname.lastname@example.org
My wife and I tried to climb Silver Secret and Silver Stairway on our way to Ouray last weekend. There were No Trespassing signs and not a lick of ice to be seen anywhere. Does anyone know the story on this area?