Tell-Tale Heart 

Re: Pete Franzen's comment.

I am sure that you found this in the end. However, a good stance for getting to the anchor can be had by cutting right around those rounded bulges, about ten feet below the anchor. You pick up good hands, and by staying cool can quickly step back left, over the bulge and right below the anchor. It turns out to be a good stance for clipping the anchor. I thought that the crux was also a bit circuitous. Cut hard left around the roof, and take scary move back right over the roof for a clip. Still, this is a great route and worth the effort to figure out.

This is a fantastic route, but was I missing something up by the anchors? I had a hard time finding any holds at all about 5 feet below the anchors (well above both cruxes). I was probably just blind from lactic-acid buildup...

One of the better sport routes in the Canyon. The crux is awkward... kind of like a harder version of the corner on Elanor (the route to the right)... some of the good holds in this section seemed like sucker holds. The 7th bolt, at the end of the crux section, was very difficult to clip.

hard 12b.

Tricky and powerful crux. Very fun moves.

Someone left two locking carabiners on the anchor for this route which I'm assuming was by mistake. If you can identify them, let me know and I'll return them to you.

Tricky and powerful. Made me feel like a weakling. So good!

Great route. Benchmark 12a.

"Overhung, powerful, and sustained."

Hey, left my Gri-Gri 2 here yesterday... if you have it, please call me 303-359-6831.

www.mountainproject.com/v/lost-gri-gri-2-boulder-canyon-east>>>

The crux clip is extremely difficult for me off of that gaston. I'm thinking I'm just going to skip it next time I'm up there. Anyone ever do this?

Great Route, although I wouldn't give it four stars. It was a bit polished and fairly juggy with the exception of the crux section. It's a hard onsight too without having any beta, the heavily chalked holds split at the crux and can be a bit deceptive. Super fun though.... I don't think you can compare to Discipline, The Shaft, or Joy Ride which are all true 4 star 12b's in the area. Get on them if you haven't!!!!

Yes, the crux clip can be skipped, and the fall is fine.

Okay, I take back my comment I put up a year ago about this route not being four stars. It's definitely fun, and the most exciting finish going right on Nevermore makes it even better.... Get after it....