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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden 
Bird Man 
Blue Velvet 
Captain Fingers 
Crushed Velvet 
Dominion 
East Chimney 
Fang-Left Side, The 
Farley 
Fracture, The 
Gallows Pole (direct) 
Grand Illusion 
Harding's Chimney 
Lady Luck 
Lurch 
Mini-Illusion, The 
Monkey Flower 
Morticia 
Opus 7 
Scheister 
South Summit Bolt Ladder 
Stone 
Swallow Tail 
Taurus 
Telesis 

Telesis 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: W. Spaller on Nov 17, 2007
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Description 

This thin delicate slab that will test your balance and footwork. The difficult sections are in the beginning (1st and 2nd bolts) and the upper fourth of the route. Because there are long runouts between some of the botls leading this route is a serious undertaking. Do not lead this route unless you are totally solid at the grade! Great toprope after leading Dominion (10a). Some of the smaller holds on the route are loose and I knocked down some small rocks while climbing. The belayer should have a helmet for this reason.


Location 

Botled face just uphill of the Fracture


Protection 

8 bolts.



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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 14, 2008

Great face climbing with several distinct cruxes. Knob climbing up high was really cool!! Great TR after doing Dominion.

By Drewsky
Jul 6, 2008

Leading this route is not so bad, but it probably *almost* gets an 'R'. I remember one foot/hand match move on the upper part that felt pretty committing; otherwise it seemed relatively safe. I don't think you ever get more than 10 feet above the bolts until the relatively easier top part (5.9ish, fairly runout).