|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||W. Spaller on Nov 17, 2007|
|Comments on Telesis||Add Comment|
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From: Oakland CA
Apr 14, 2008
|Great face climbing with several distinct cruxes. Knob climbing up high was really cool!! Great TR after doing Dominion.|
Jul 6, 2008
|Leading this route is not so bad, but it probably *almost* gets an 'R'. I remember one foot/hand match move on the upper part that felt pretty committing; otherwise it seemed relatively safe. I don't think you ever get more than 10 feet above the bolts until the relatively easier top part (5.9ish, fairly runout).|
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
May 18, 2014
|Does anyone know the first ascent story with this thing? I'm curious why the first half of the climb is so well protected on both 5.10 and 5.11 terrain, but the last half seems to be runnout at very similar grades. Was it led ground up? Drilled from hooks?|
From: Vacaville Ca.
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Yeah, It was originally lead by Paul Crawford ground up drilled on stances and called Swamp Thing. It was protected with a piton down low and three bolts on the face. There was no bolted anchor, the route went another 30 or so feet up above the current anchor to a ledge with a gear anchor. The route was retro bolted sometime in the early 90's adding a bolt before the pin, several on the face above and one added next to the last original bolt on the route to create the current anchor and re-named Telesis. It was rated .11a R.
Or something about like that...
I believe it was retrobolted with permission.