|Sugarloaf, East Face
This thin delicate slab that will test your balance and footwork. The difficult sections are in the beginning (1st and 2nd bolts) and the upper fourth of the route. Because there are long runouts between some of the botls leading this route is a serious undertaking. Do not lead this route unless you are totally solid at the grade! Great toprope after leading Dominion (10a). Some of the smaller holds on the route are loose and I knocked down some small rocks while climbing. The belayer should have a helmet for this reason.
Botled face just uphill of the Fracture
From: Oakland CA
Apr 14, 2008
Great face climbing with several distinct cruxes. Knob climbing up high was really cool!! Great TR after doing Dominion.
Jul 6, 2008
Leading this route is not so bad, but it probably *almost* gets an 'R'. I remember one foot/hand match move on the upper part that felt pretty committing; otherwise it seemed relatively safe. I don't think you ever get more than 10 feet above the bolts until the relatively easier top part (5.9ish, fairly runout).
|By aaron hope|
From: Walnut Creek, CA
May 18, 2014
Does anyone know the first ascent story with this thing? I'm curious why the first half of the climb is so well protected on both 5.10 and 5.11 terrain, but the last half seems to be runnout at very similar grades. Was it led ground up? Drilled from hooks?
From: Vacaville Ca.
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Yeah, It was originally lead by Paul Crawford ground up drilled on stances and called Swamp Thing. It was protected with a piton down low and three bolts on the face. There was no bolted anchor, the route went another 30 or so feet up above the current anchor to a ledge with a gear anchor. The route was retro bolted sometime in the early 90's adding a bolt before the pin, several on the face above and one added next to the last original bolt on the route to create the current anchor and re-named Telesis. It was rated .11a R.
Or something about like that...
I believe it was retrobolted with permission.