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Rock Of Ages
Routes Sorted
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Black Tie T 
Brain Stem S 
Celestial Gate T 
Center Dihedral T 
Days of Heaven T 
Desolation Angels T 
Greensleeves S 
Hats Off T 
Heavenly Daze S 
Multiple Blues T 
Nameless Demons T 
Original Sin T 
Pitch Perfect T 
Rope Rider T 
Telekinesis S 
Wasp, The T 


YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell (hardware by Mike Wray)
Page Views: 2,264
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on May 2, 2009

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Heinous slabs.. one climber's nightmare is another...


Begin Telekinesis with a relatively mild section of interesting 12- climbing on edges and ledges until you reach a mini-roof and a precarious shake. Clip up before drifting a bit right through the roof and immediately engage in a desperate, extremely thin crux with very few hold options. Continue crimping on bullet, beautiful, green colored stone for what seems like 2-3 hours. This upper section eases up a little, but there are no rests (especially not for your calves).


This is directly right of The Wasp.



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From: Santa Monica, Ca.
May 4, 2009

"...relatively mild section of interesting 12-..."

That statement and the look of this climb underlines how pushing the limits has taken this sport to an order of magnitude above what we used to even consider!
By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 25, 2011

Anyone know what the heinously hard, blank dihedral is to the right of this line?
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 25, 2011

Brain Stem - 13+. FA: Topher Donahue.

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