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Unsorted Routes:

Telegraph Road 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Matt Juth / Bernard Gillett, 12/03
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,903
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Dec 26, 2003

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Climber on P1 of A Long December (an excellent fin...

Description 

This route is named for one of my favorite songs. I guess I just notice the bane of creation as I walk up there.

The route begins just to the right of Life After James on the arete of a left-facing dihedral.

P1: 90 feet, 7 bolts, 5.11-, A few nuts can be placed. Stem out on the arete from the slab, clip a bolt, fire up to the second bolt and pull around (11-). Climb up to the double bulges and mantle through each (10). A longer draw on bolt 3 will reduce drag. Bear hug and sidepull up the slab and seam to the belay (10-).

P2: 65 feet, 6 bolts, 5.11. Traverse left on the foot ledge to the first bolt, and pull over the bulge on a crimp (10+). The next bolt looks far, but once above the first bolt the moves are easy. work up on the good horizontals to bolt 3. Pull up the blank polished slab to good handholds and work the feet to a decent stance (11). Climb along the margin of the slab with slick balancy moves past a chickenhead to the belay (10).

Protection 

Pitch 1: 7 bolts. Pitch 2: 6 bolts.

A few nuts can be placed on P1.


Photos of Telegraph Road Slideshow Add Photo
Telegraph Road From the Base.
BETA PHOTO: Telegraph Road From the Base.
If you can reach right, it's not as hard as it loo...
If you can reach right, it's not as hard as it loo...

Comments on Telegraph Road Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 2, 2012
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Dec 26, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Currently, I don't have chains at the first belay. To rap off the top of the route, I just tension over to the anchors on the first pitch of Life After James. The top of the second pitch has Fixe Rings.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 21, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Doing the route again, I think the first fitch crux might be 10+ and the second 11-. A few others seem to support those ratings.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 26, 2004

Gear Alert
Bring some small gear for Pitch 1 and it protects just fine. First bolt is in an obnoxious place, but you can avoid it by placing a hand-sized cam below the 2nd bolt, standing on the ramp. Fun climbing.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 26, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Thanks for the comment. I put the bolt at the limit of my reach so that a fall would be far enough out to be clear of the ankle-snapping slab below. What did you think for difficulty?
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 26, 2004

Your ankles would be just fine when you clip the 2nd bolt if the first is at your knees, instead of 5 feet to the right and below your feet.P1 .10d (first two clips). the mantle over the bulge at bolt 4 was fantastic. The rest of the pitch is very natural and fun.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 26, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fair enough, thanks. I'm glad you brought Pro.

10d then 11- on P2?
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
May 5, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Sorry, but the bolt wouldn't be at your knees where the glorious chalk spot was pasted. It would be below your feet, and now instead of falling 1 foot to the right and clearing everything, you would hit the bottom of the slab. Ditto on the cam.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
May 16, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The quick links are in place at the first anchors. I don't think a 50m would make it. You might be able to downclimb if you rap to the left, but with the roof you will be in space if you throw the ropes straight down.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 21, 2004

great movement on both pitches. I placed a couple of aliens in P1, but not extremely necessary. P1: 5.11 by the first bolt, 5.10b/c mantle, and somewhat sustained 10- climbing getting to the anchors (I placed a red alien after the last bolt).

P2 has some pretty stiff crimpy moves through the crux on some glass smooth granite. 5.11b

I look forward to linking the first pitch with Gene/Georges. good job, matt.
By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 21, 2005

Finally had a chance to get on this route.I had a question about p2 though. I can lead the moves off the belay on p2 of LAJ nicely. However, the moves off the belay on p2 of this route are rated the same but neither myself or the 3 strong climbers I was with could lead this cleanly. Have some holds broken off or is this substantial harder than it is rated or were we just having a bad day?Beta?

Thanks,

Ken H.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Feb 22, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Ken,

I haven't been up there quite a few months so here is the best that I remember.

I traverse out with my feet on the ledge a few feet until I can clip the bolt. Using a mediocre sidepull to the right, and underclinging the little 1-2" ovelap overhead (with my thumb?), I deadpoint up to a 1/2" x 6 inch horizontal edge above the roof (The move is more static for taller folks). One I get the edge I just throw my feet as high as I can get them and reach up to the good holds above.

The edge that I pull over on is a little soft sounding. I think/hope that if it broke, it would actually make an equally good hold, that is 6 inches lower. For a short guy like me it would make the move easier.

As far as the ratings, I know of two other people who have climbed that pitch. The ratings are far from concrete. I knew the move from setting the route, and Bernard, is.... Bernard, so It's hard to tell. I don't know what Darren thought of that move, but he agreed with 11b for the next crux.

Also, as you said, the 10d/11- move on James is much easier for taller people, so for me it is very stout, making harder things more comparable.

I hope that it's just a matter of working it out (maybe it is solid 5.11) rather than a missing hold.

Let me know if is sounds like something is missing. Did you enjoy the first pitch?

Matt
By another estes drunk
Jun 18, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great Route! The begining of the second pitch was just as hard as the crux. Good sustained climbing throughout. A bit nervy at the top.

-ted
By Dougald MacDonald
Mar 24, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Pitch 1 = Superb. I placed a blue Alien between two bolts on the upper slab, and I would have been happier if I had placed a small red C3 after the last bolt.

Pitch 2 = Desperate and sporty. The second crux seemed harder than the first (I couldn't do it), and much more than a letter grade harder than pitch 1.

There is a new pitch to the right of Pitch 2. Looked slightly easier, but we were out of daylight to try it, so no warranties expressed or implied.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Interesting comment about a new route. When I was putting up Telegraph, I first tried to climb the slab to the right multiple times. there were a couple lines that went, but I always ended up feeling like I was working too close to the Winter Dreams. Also the climbing didn't seem to flow very well. I'm interested to see what was put in there?
By Bernard Gillett
Apr 2, 2008

The new pitch to the right of pitch two mentioned by Dougald is the second pitch of The Road Goes Ever On, 5.11b ***. Excellent climbing, a little squeezed (between Telegraph Rd and Winter Dreams), but worth the bolts in my opinion. The first pitch (5.10b) begins with Life After James (clip its first 7 bolts, staying to the right), and then follows the thin cracks (gear) just left of the upper half of pitch 1 on Telegraph Rd to its belay. Second pitch goes straight up (7 bolts, reachy opening moves that can be avoided on the right, with 5.11 crux at bolt 4, harder than the crux on pitch 2 of Telegraph Rd -- I rated it 5.11b).

Matt, you and I exchanged email about this route a couple years ago (we did in in 2005; I credited you in my guide with the 2003 FA while doing TR exploration for Telegraph Rd).

All this will be made clear when my book to North and South St Vrain comes out -- it's in page layout phase right now, and will show up in the stores in the coming months.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 3, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Ooohh Ya... I remember now.

I love that cool crack you are talking about. I was trying to make a route out of that when putting up "james" but really didn't have anywhere for it to go. Sounds like a really fun line from the ground up.

I can't believe it's been that long....
By Rich Kelly
Jan 2, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

After doing p2 of Telegraph Road, we tried to TR p2 of "The Road Goes Ever On". We were unable to pull the crux move. We therefore suspect the grade is harder than the 11b rating in the guidebook!