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At the second bolt and crux.
This climb is pretty fun and quite technical.
Start this climb up and right of Grins
, just left of a series of short, right-facing dihedrals and pillars. Climb up some so-so rock to get to an arete with 4 bolts. Clip the first bolt and then work both sides of the arete. The multiple crux moves involve heel-hooking the arete and palm-smearing around it at times. The moves are more insecure than Last Laugh
, in my opinion, but pretty fun!
Per Brian Hansen: this was originally led with one bolt.
4 QDs plus a few runners for the top. There is some distance between the bolts to be considered, but the route seems safe enough.
This is a reasonable top-rope from the anchors up and right of the top of Grins
. You may want to rap off instead of lowering, however.
You may need a 60m rope to TR this climb or to lower off.
Carol clipping the second bolt.
Mike Amato edging up the arete.
Carol Kotchek starting into the crux.
Sep 22, 2002
It is a climb well worth doing! Great moves on the crux! Can seem a bit runout (I didn't think so), but the crux is well bolted and the run out parts can be protected. Good hand jammin' before the bolts, great place for pro if needed. Easy to top rope from top of Grins. DO IT!
By Matt Burns
Feb 20, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy to toprope, but the long "runout" up to the first bolt is all really easy (5.6 maybe?), and protectable with gear. I'm pretty certain that this is no harder than 10c, the most difficult moves are low near the first two bolts. Still fun, if you're at Happy Hour, throw a rope on it and enjoy.
By Kevin Neilson
Jun 4, 2014
I thought the crux was a harder than 11a. It would be a difficult onsight as the holds aren't visible from your position as you enter the crux. Definitely take some small cams.
By Brian Hansen
From: West of Boulder, CO
May 22, 2015
Originally led with one bolt.