2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Start this climb up and right of Grins, just left of a series of short, right-facing dihedrals and pillars. Climb up some so-so rock to get to an arete with 4 bolts. Clip the first bolt and then work both sides of the arete. The multiple crux moves involve heel-hooking the arete and palm-smearing around it at times. The moves are more insecure than Last Laugh, in my opinion, but pretty fun!
4 QDs plus a few runners for the top. There is some distance between the bolts to be considered, but the route seems safe enough.
This is a reasonable top-rope from the anchors up and right of the top of Grins. You may want to rap off instead of lowering, however.
You may need a 60m rope to TR this climb or to lower off.
It is a climb well worth doing! Great moves on the crux! Can seem a bit runout (I didn't think so), but the crux is well bolted and the run out parts can be protected. Good hand jammin' before the bolts, great place for pro if needed. Easy to top rope from top of Grins. DO IT!
By Matt Burns Feb 20, 2004 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
Easy to toprope, but the long "runout" up to the first bolt is all really easy (5.6 maybe?), and protectable with gear. I'm pretty certain that this is no harder than 10c, the most difficult moves are low near the first two bolts. Still fun, if you're at Happy Hour, throw a rope on it and enjoy.