Teetering on the Brink of Madness  5.11a/b

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Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] FA:  Not sure Submitted By:  Scott W on Jun 22, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route is awesome, so sad it doesn't appear to get climbed more. No pitch feels particularly harder than the others, just fun moderate slab, though slightly terrifying if you aren't used to it. Spot on for the grade in my opinion. Finish merging with last pitch of Unfinished Symphony.

Pitch 1:Start Snake, at first anchor head straight up, going left around a large tree. Belay on top of the tree.

Pitch 2: Climb 5.8 hand crack forever, it will thin out, gear to blue metolius. Clip bolt and traverse left to another bolt, then straight up through scoop.

Pitch 3: Climb straight up for a bolt or two, then straight right around the corner, bolts will great you on the other side, meet back with the headwall and pull a small bulge to get back onto the slab, traverse to anchors.

Pitch 4: Climb delicately and meet up with the last real pitch of Unfinished Symphony.

Location 

Head up first pitch of Snake, instead of traversing at the first anchor head straight up the crack at 5.8. My advice, setup first belay at past the tree...I didn't and had the gnarliest rope drag ever for the 11a slab pitch.

Protection 

Bolts, well spaced slab attack. Small rack for the first pitch of snake and the 5.8ish crack leading up to the slab.