Artsy silhouette taken at the Teepe pillar col, wi...
Several routes can be found on this prominant tooth-like rock. Overshadowed by the Grand Teton, this very secluded peak is representative of typical high quality Teton granite. It offers excellent exposure and has quite an airy view of Garnet Canyon and the surrounding peaks. Routes vary from low to moderate and it stands approx. 200 ft high above the ridge from which it sprouts.
There are two options that I know of. There is a direct approach from the Middle Teton glacier moraine, or you can hike to the base from the Lower Saddle of the Grand.
From the Lower Saddle, hike up the base of the Grand to the Black Dike and traverse east passing below the starts for the Lower Exum, Petzoldt Ridge, and Stettner Couloir. Once passing the Stettner Couloir, decsend down the steep gully and head out onto the ridge to the base of the Pillar. (I can only comment on this approach as was the only way I reached it.)
Solid Teton climbing up 3-4 pitches depending on how you break it up. This route is also the exit route with 3-4 rap stations comprised of massive clumps of webbing, easily identifiable. ...[more]Browse More Classics in WY
The Jackson Hole Mtn Guide's Hut is below Teepee Pillar. From above Petzoldt's Caves on the standard approach, break right and strenuously upward up an endless scree slope, pass the hut, then ascend the Teepee "glacier" to the col north of Teepee Pillar. This is no problem except that it usually requires an ice axe. It doesn't have any crevasses.
Approach via Teepee glacier is a very concise way to reach the pillar; as I did to start the dir S. ridge(5.7)of Teepee . I have also taken the Teepee Glacier approach to reach the Petzoldt dir another time to the East face of the Grand. Unless you are doing a 1 day trip I suggest spending the night at the Moraine then form there head up the path to the JHMG hut then up the glacier.