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The Dark Side
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Rip It S 
Route Fluffer S 
Shelf Road Virgin S 
Stink Finger S 
Stuck in the Middle With You S 
Suspender Man S 
Teenage Wristband S 
Thank Heaven for Little Girls S 
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Two Hearts S 
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Teenage Wristband 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Kelly Baldwin and Brad Short
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,405
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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Making the super nice layback moves down low on th...

Description 

Just left of "I Scare Myself" is large detached flake. Climb up the flake clipping bolts to a good stance. Climb up the sharp edge of the wafer-thin flake to a steep pocketed face. Follow the line of bolts up the face (beautiful climbing) to a two-bolt anchor just right and down from a small pine tree. Excellent route that will only get better with more ascents.

Protection 

Eight bolts up to a two-bolt anchor.


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By slim
Administrator
Apr 13, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Cool route. Neat and varied climbing with a wild flake start and nice pocketed headwall. My partner and I felt it was probably in the 8 to 9 range (similar to Lumina or the new 9 near Swinging Richards). There are always really good holds for the hands and feet, and it is less than vertical. Makes a great warmup for the area.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A great route at the Darkside! We all really enjoyed this one. The lower half has a distinct "trad feel" to it with solid laybacking moves taking you up and over the flake to a good stance before the enjoyable face climbing to the anchors. Well worth doing.
By Deaun Schovajsa
May 20, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a quality route (much better than its neighbor - Route Fluffer). Fairly sustained climbing from top to bottom with no real single crux.

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