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The North Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 
Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
Full Retard S 
Here We Go Again... Again. S 
Lead Farmer S 
Logan's Run S 
Long Black Veil S 
Observe God's Mistake S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 

Teenage Prostitutes 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Neil Canon, Bob Robertson, Rich Aschert
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 18, 2011

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At the mid-way rest.

Description 

According to legend, this was the first route at The North Gym, and this section of the cliffline is named for this route. Established ground-up in October 1985, this was also one of the very first routes at Shelf Road.

This steep slab begins with some intriguing, off-balance liebacking but ends in a brutal slab crux with tiny slopey holds. Not sold yet? This line sports a piton and a 1/4" Star-Drive as well, though both are backed up by 3/8" angle-iron bolts that are only 25-or-so years old. Despite the old-school nature of the climb, the rock is excellent, and the first half is enjoyable and novel.

Lieback & fingerlock up the offset seam. When the seam peters out, make some difficult moves to the horizontal break and a great rest. After a body length of trivial moves, weave desperately between uninspiring edges that all seem to face the wrong way. After the high horizontal break, a few big jugs lead to the top.

Location 

This is 10' right of "Black Crack".

Protection 

8 bolts with red, angle-iron hangers, an old piton, a Star Drive, to a 2 bolt ring anchor.


Photos of Teenage Prostitutes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the midway rest.
At the midway rest.
Rock Climbing Photo: The original Teenage Prostitutes Area.  Routes sho...
The original Teenage Prostitutes Area. Routes sho...

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By Jakomait
Apr 2, 2016

Sustained technical climbing on great rock with lots of good sidepulls and balancy movement.

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