The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
A small crag with a few good lines that lies perhaps only 5-10 minutes from the new 'Gem Lake' parking for Lumpy. This is a good option if you only have a short time or weather is questionable. The crag and climb names are dedicated in remembrance of the modern social phenomenon of the most recent 'Teen Queens.' Lindsey Lohan, Brittany Spears, Paris Hilton, Nicole Riche, etc... the crowd of millionaire kids becoming Hollywood screw-ups.
Presently there are 2 routes on the rock. Not great, but not bad. Probably as good as anything else that close to the car, and north-facing so as to catch shade until at least mid-day.
The routes are: 1) 'Too Much Too Soon' (AKA: 'Freedom'), a surprisingly good 5.7 rising traverse along a ramp that runs 80 feet to a vertical crack crux and then out along the summit to the top of 'Too Little Too Late' for the rap station.
2) 'Too Little Too Late' (AKA: 'Discipline'), a 5.10 crack to seam to face climb that lies perhaps 200 feet up the shallow gully. The line climbs up from a crack-start near the right-most of two medium pines growing very close to the rock. The crack ends 1/2 way up and leaves a few options for particular stopper or RP placements on the way to the top.
To descend form this crag you can go to the second on two very large huecos on the West side of the summit, just above the top of 'Too Little Too Late' and find there a 2-sling threaded socket and a steel link. Medium cams can be added to this to create a good belay or TR anchor if desired. In wet weather these huecos may be holding some water and be less pleasant to belay from.
Head up north from the new parking lot toward the Gem Lake trail, head right at the T intersection as for Crescent Wall, but before that comes into view, you will travel within meters along the base of pair of rising slabs on the right. Looking up above the toe of the first, you will observe a crag perhaps 80' in height with a roof formed by 3 blocks jutting out over the NW end, well overhead. This is the toe of "Teen Queens Crag". The shallow and low-angle gully that extends from the base of this and up between it and the second rock that is passed is perhaps 10 meters wide and very easily walked. Approached from this point, both climbs will be on your right.
A good climb that starts off moderate... and stays that way. Ascend the crack past some slabby 5.7 moves on sloper feet and get a piece or two of gear in whenever you can. As the climb rises up on the line, you pass a 3-foot tall dwarfed pine after just a few meters, and then a tiny sampling after a dozen meters or so. As you progress the gear becomes more plentiful and straight-forward. The crux is where the crack turns more vertical in a dark section of rock and you can jam or protect within t...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
This crag is on McGregor Ranch land according to the maps and signage on the ground. We climbed at this spot extensively around 2000-1 before realizing our error.
Unless it can be proven otherwise, probably best to take this area out of the data base so as not to threaten access at Lumpy or create huge issues for climbing on the McGregor Ranch who own this property. Also, no reason to have a rap anchor on top of this cliff as it's a 30 second walk-off to the north.
Please check the maps at the new trailhead which show the park boundaries that are some distance out from the new parking lot. Signs request hikers to stay on the trail until through the McGregor Ranch and into the park.
There were a couple of guys last summer driling bolts on top of a walk-off crack climb (for an anchor) just east of the parking lot on (obvious) private land. Bad idea and I know the landowners were up there soon and unhappy about it.
As well, it's never a good idea to be drilling bolts on a busy weekend in plain view of a busy parking lot or hikers. A recent poll on "environmental impacts" showed that many of the "public" rank climbing third, right behind minining and timber as the greatest threat to our natural resources. Go figure....
I failed to realize these crags could be (probably are) on private land. It's true enough that they lie between the "Stay On Trail" sign and the Park boundary sign, but I hadn't made the connection until Eli pointed it out. I will remove my comments and pictures, and second the motion to remove the entire area from the database. Cheers, Jason
But it's such a great crag name, maybe it can be "saved" and used for some other outstanding cliff that is not on private property with "no trespassing signs". I'm sure there is someplace in Boulder Canyon that deserves this honor. It's been called "Gem Canyon" by the Estes locals for almost a decade but we sure do appreciate your help in coming up with other creative crag and route names - especially from such helpful Boulderites!
Just saw this post and wanted to reply. That person placing anchor bolts on private land near the new parking lot was most likely me. I know I placed a two-bolt anchor above a couple of 25-foot cracks that I found, cleaned, and then led shortly after the new parking lot was installed. I did not realize at the time that these cracks were on private property since the boundaries between park, ranch, and private homeowner properties were not clearly identifiable at that time. When I went back to the climbs about a week after I placed the anchor, the bolts had been removed and the holes patched. I always wondered what the story was there. Guess now I know.
It seems like you may have a personal relationship with the homeowners below this cliff whom I offended with my egregious bolting job. Could you please relay to them my sincerest apologies for my trespassing and vandalism? Thanks, Chris
The text below was written in resonse to a post directed at me from CatalonianCarl that was, let's say, assertive. He removed his post but I left my reply becasue it contains some thoughts that I still wanted to convey.
This has nothing to do with Chris personally. He is obviously jazzed about climbing and giving something back to the community and for that I say thank you. I would love to climb his route on Sundance.
I was simply stating my opinion that Lumpy Ridge is a traditional climbing area and as such, I don't think bolted anchors should be installed unless they are absolutely necessary. Twenty five foot cracks don't meet this criteria in my opinion. (am I wrong here? what do others in the group think? is it ok to install bolted anchors at the top of short cracks at Lumpy Ridge?)
I also believe that before you bolt in or around a National Park, you should know the property boundaries and rules before you drill. If what you wrote is true and "none of the people involved had any clue about location of boundaries", it would seem prudent to find out before drilling.