||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Grove Way, Ted Nast, Dan Doody, and Andy Ryan, May, 1956 FFA: Jerry Sublett and Phil Fowler, July, 1971|
|Page Views: ||1,876|
|Submitted By: ||Andrew Gram on Jun 20, 2002|
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Contemplating his next move.
This great route is a fairly long pitch for Vedauwoo, and has everything from chimneying to a nice fist/hand crack. Another excellent moderate on the Nautilus.
The climb follow the obvious chimney on the left side of Ted's Trot Block between Cornelius and Lower Slot Left. Climb a fun well protected chimney(I'm not kidding, it sews up with stoppers and aliens) to a big ledge. Above the ledge, climb another chimney with a fun hand crack in it to the small roof. Pull over the roof on bomber fist jams, and grunt up the dihedral to the top. The last 20 feet are the crux.
To descend, rap off the back of Ted's Trot block to the first big ledge. Walk back around this and squeeze down the worm hole - this puts you about 20 feet from your pack.
Stoppers, small to medium cams. Aliens make protecting the initial chimney easier. Save a 3.5 and a 3 camalot for the exit moves, and no wide pieces are needed despite what it looks like from the ground.
A shot of me (Mike) getting in my second piece dur...
Andrew Gram squeezing through the opening chimney ...
By Michael Kullman
Sep 3, 2003
This is an excellent route with varied climbing and is a good way to get introduced to big cracks at Vedauwoo without needing any big gear (just a fist sized piece or two for the top). The crux moves under the roof and out onto the face are great fun, perfect fist jams. I agree with the comments about using Aliens (or equivalent) in the opening chimney moves, smaller gear is what you need. I lugged a #4.5 and #5 Camalot with me and they just got in the way.
By Paul Sampson
Jul 23, 2004
A fun climb with lots of variety.
By Brian in SLC
Dec 18, 2009
Here's some at interesting FA information.
5.5 A1: done 18 May 1956 by Grove Way, Ted Nast, Dan Doody and Andy Ryan. "This route bears the remains of the bolting fanatics having at least 11 bolts in a route that has been done with one and for which three are very adequate."
5.7+: done July 1971 by Jerry Sublett and Phil Fowler. Notes: "Need no bolts - protect with I-beam & nuts - start climb at bottom & do in 2 short pitches bottom chimney = 5.5"
By jake marlow
Jun 28, 2012
Chimneys kind of suck, but the last 20 feet on this route make it all worth it.