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Ted Shread 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Raleigh Collins, PT.
Page Views: 825
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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"Ted Shred". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This is the obvious finger crack.

Protection 

Small cams.


Photos of Ted Shread Slideshow Add Photo
EF dicking around at the base of Ted Shread
EF dicking around at the base of Ted Shread
EF starting Ted Shread
EF starting Ted Shread

Comments on Ted Shread Add Comment
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By saltlick
From: gym
Jun 8, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

this climb has zero moves in the 5.9 range. Whilst internets-ing around trying to figure out which climbs we had stumbled onto the other day, I found this gem on SummitPost:

"Ted Shred 5.9, trad. This route is the closest to the parking area and easy to recognize by its continuous finger crack. Don't use abundant face holds around the crack if you want to preserve its 5.9 rating. I haven't climbed that route yet."

We climbed the Mountaineer's Route on Whitney the next day, and, finding no MP page for it and assuming that the above rating technique applied to all climbs in the Lone Pine vicinity, we rated it V 5.10 A4. This rating, of course, assumes that climbers will avoid the moderate snow couloir...

Ted Shred is a 5.7 face climb with many optional crack moves and ample traditional protection opportunities. Small pro to .5"
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Aug 20, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Here, here! I rated this climb 5.7+. Climb the face but use the crack for pro.
By Mountain Matt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Looking at the wall, this crack just begs to be climbed. Good one for the grade.
You can do it with or without using the crack, really. Agreed, crack takes good pro.
By BAd
Jan 19, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think 5.8 is fair, but the start is the crux. Once you're up a few feet, easy and fun. 5.7 ish.