A diagonal crack splits this overhanging face. Perfect undercling fingerlocks, slopers, small technical feet, and hard pulls are all part of the fun. Start standing with dual underclings and tiny feet. Make a large move left hand to a sloper on the lip, work your feet, and follow the crack to the right. Once you grab the jugs, the topout through the notch will feel like cake. Careful not to hit the tree if you blow it.
A sit start goes at V9-10. The block on the left is not part of the problem.
This problem is on a boulder sitting between the Font Boulder and the Upper Cliff. Although it practically sits on top of the Font boulder, it is best approached from the top. If you can find The Roof, keep walking towards Bean Pole and look downhill to your left.
Pad & spotter
|By Pat McGinn|
Oct 11, 2009
More fun than it looks. A hard highstep to get the good sloper.
From: Portland, ME
Oct 12, 2009
rating: V8 7B
Agreed. I think this problem is excellent.
|By Tyler Hogan|
Sep 10, 2013
I agree that this is an excellent problem as well. Does anyone have any information on the sit? It felt very hard even with stacked pads. Perhaps it was just squat start?