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 ADVANCED
Mosaic Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Cakes 
Better Red Than Dead 
Bienvenidos 
Black Streak 
Chicken Heads 
Chicken Shit 
Clean Green Dream 
Cryin' in the Rain 
Dirty Black Nightmare 
Dirty Diagonal 
Dung Alley 
Five Years After 
Fried Chickens 
Holthouse to Hell 
Mama Jugs 
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) 
Rite of Summer Dreams 
Seaman Girl 
Serpent Face 
Serpentine Crack 
Summer Dreams 
Suprise-Suprise 
Techtonics 
Techweenie 
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) 
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) 
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) 
Walking Dread 

Techtonics 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Todd Bibler
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Aug 23, 2008
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Really enjoyable face climbing on tiny edges on steep rock in the same vein as Techweenie. Small edges on cool plates serve up unique movement from straight down pulling, side pulling, and underclinging. Cruise up generous chickenheads and edges to the high first bolt. After that, things get smaller and more interesting past three more bolts. Take some small gear to fish into some tricky placements and keep going to easier ground above the fourth bolt to the anchors.

The D. Jackson book gives this the "R" protection rating where J. Foley does not. Probably is "R" if you don't take tiny gear or are unable to place that gear in some tricky placements.


Location 

Techtonics is the middle of three mostly-bolted routes on the Painted Wall/Mosaic Rock Left area. It's the four-bolt route just left of Techweenie.


Protection 

Four bolts plus tiny supplemental gear. It's possible and very reasonable to clip the first bolt of Techweenie because the first bolt on this route is way up there.
I placed a poor #0 C3 right next to a .3 camalot that was better between bolts 3 and 4. Above the fourth bolt I placed a #000 C3 and a .5 camalot. All this and I still sweated bullets. Two cold shuts for the anchors. Please rappel from these rather than lower through them.



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