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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area
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Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cave Woman T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swollen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 971 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning
Details
Season Raptor Nesting
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
This route heads up the left side of the broken rocks under the big roof on the right side of the trad area and goes over the roof near the left side of the roof. Then it continues on airy exposed climbing, ending just to the left of p2 of Packrat Dihedral. A 50m rope is sufficient.
p1: scramble up 3rd and 4th class rock about 50' to an alcove and set your first belay here (short "pitch").
p2: climb crack systems heading up and slightly right, staying below the big dihedral, toward a weakness in the big roof; pull the roof (5.8 crux) and set a belay above the roof.
p3: go up and right to airy exposed face climbing (5.6) similar to p2 of Packrat Dihedral (small pockets/cracks for pro); continue up and anchor at a tree on top.
p1: scramble up 3rd and 4th class rock about 50' to an alcove and set your first belay here (short "pitch").
p2: climb crack systems heading up and slightly right, staying below the big dihedral, toward a weakness in the big roof; pull the roof (5.8 crux) and set a belay above the roof.
p3: go up and right to airy exposed face climbing (5.6) similar to p2 of Packrat Dihedral (small pockets/cracks for pro); continue up and anchor at a tree on top.
Location
The start of the route is toward the left side of the broken rock area beneath the big roof on the right side of the trad area. For orientation, p1 of Packrat Dihedral ends at the right side of the same roof.
For the descent, climb up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail. Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.
For the descent, climb up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail. Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.
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