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Technoparty 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 7 pitches, 600', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 237
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Oct 21, 2008

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Early in the demanding third pitch of Technoparty

Description 

True to its name, a very technical route on superb, compact rock. It is very homogeneous, and at times quite thought-provoking.

Pitch one: 5c+, superb, compact vertical rock. Technical from start to finish.
Pitch two: 5c+, a steep, slightly overhanging start on good holds leads to another section of compact rock, traversing right.
Pitch three: 6c, straight up a beautiful corner, followed by a traverse to the left on small but very positive holds. From there it is an almost continuous crux to the end, working on super thin holds and demanding a solid portion of body tension.
Pitch four: 6a+, straight up a corner, again very technical. The first few meters of rock are a bit shady, but after that it is stellar.
Pitch five: 6b, a very awkward traverse left( at least for the lurches amongst us), followed by very nice, technical face climbing to gain the anchor.
Pitch six: 6a+, straightforward, crimpy moves from start to finish.
Pitch seven: 6c+, the very best pitch of the route. Steep at first, on incredible jugs. Steep the rest of the way too, on increasingly smaller but very positive, sharp holds to gain the anchor.

Location 

The approach leads past the base of the meteorit sector. Cut left at or slightly before the lowest extension of the face to access the route. The name is written at the base in very large letters.

Protection 

The route is very well bolted. No complementary protection is required.


Photos of Technoparty Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch five: having just pulled through the technical moves to finish off the pitch.
Pitch five: having just pulled through the technic...
Pitch three: Petra H hanging on through the desparately blank crux of pitch three.
Pitch three: Petra H hanging on through the despar...
Pitch five from above
Pitch five from above
The challenging (particularly for big folks) traverse early in pitch five of Technoparty
The challenging (particularly for big folks) trave...

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