|Torture Machine Area
The route starts on a technical slab that requires balance and friction to move up. About 4 more bolts of easy climbing (5.9) lead to the first crux. More easy climbing leads to a high undercling below the last bolt. A short traverse right, a difficult high step, and a long reach to a bad sloper makes up the final cruxy moves.
Route is located immediately right of Tangerine Dream and left of Vertigo
13 bolts to open shuts. May want to use long slings if toproping.
|By Ian McG|
Feb 5, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Beware DEATH BLOCK at the top of the route. The mandatory undercling just below the last bolt is a time bomb waiting to happen. fun route otherwise.
|By Nick Tunnicliffe|
Jan 20, 2014
watch out for the 100 feet of choss... aka the whole route.