Technicians of the Sacred 5.12b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 6 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b/c [details] |
| FA: | Andy DeKlerk |
| Submitted By: | Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008 |
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P1 in morning light
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Description This is a very cool looking 6 pitch climb up the entire wall that breaches the Golden Arch at its apex arete! I'm only familiar with P1; all pitches, however, are bolted with the exception of P6, which is a 5.8 crack. Some nuts might be useful to supplement the bolts and pins on the upper pitches, but that's merely a conjecture on my part, as are the descriptions of the upper pitches. The lower part of this route and possibly more are likely soaked by the waterfall until summer rolls around.
P1 (.12) climbs an attractive black and white corner to the right of Swim and Green Dragon. A crux down low leads to very continuous steep climbing through bulges and corners to a spacious ledge with a two bolt anchor.
P2 (.11-) is a bolted ramp.
P3 (.12-) is a sparsely bolted low-angled face.
P4 (.12b/c or .11b) either climbs the aforementioned arete straight-on or climbs higher up the corner and traverses back right, then climbs corners above.
P5 (.11) appears to be continuous 5.11 climbing through corners and aretes.
P6 (5.8) is a hand crack that requires natural gear.
I'll post more information when I climb the full route.
Location Start in the bolted black and white corner to the right of the waterfall.
Descent appears to be possible via the route, although I don't know what the rappel is like over the Golden Arch; care should be taken with that one because it looks like you could be left hanging in space! Bring two 60m ropes and be prepared to supplement the webbing and hardware. Some of the bolts are likely to be rather old as well, but the ones on the first pitch are solid as of '06.
Description This is a very cool looking 6 pitch climb up the entire wall that breaches the Golden Arch at its apex arete! I'm only familiar with P1; all pitches, however, are bolted with the exception of P6, which is a 5.8 crack. Some nuts might be useful to supplement the bolts and pins on the upper pitches, but that's merely a conjecture on my part, as are the descriptions of the upper pitches. The lower part of this route and possibly more are likely soaked by the waterfall until summer rolls around.
P1 (.12) climbs an attractive black and white corner to the right of Swim and Green Dragon. A crux down low leads to very continuous steep climbing through bulges and corners to a spacious ledge with a two bolt anchor.
P2 (.11-) is a bolted ramp.
P3 (.12-) is a sparsely bolted low-angled face.
P4 (.12b/c or .11b) either climbs the aforementioned arete straight-on or climbs higher up the corner and traverses back right, then climbs corners above.
P5 (.11) appears to be continuous 5.11 climbing through corners and aretes.
P6 (5.8) is a hand crack that requires natural gear.
I'll post more information when I climb the full route.
Protection Bolts. Gear for P6 and possible to supplement bolts and/or old fixed pins. Anchors appear fixed; however, bring webbing as many of them are sling belays.
Location Start in the bolted black and white corner to the right of the waterfall.
Descent appears to be possible via the route, although I don't know what the rappel is like over the Golden Arch; care should be taken with that one because it looks like you could be left hanging in space! Bring two 60m ropes and be prepared to supplement the webbing and hardware. Some of the bolts are likely to be rather old as well, but the ones on the first pitch are solid as of '06.
Protection Bolts. Gear for P6 and possible to supplement bolts and/or old fixed pins. Anchors appear fixed; however, bring webbing as many of them are sling belays.
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