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Technical Knee-Highs 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 638
Submitted By: grk10vq on Aug 25, 2009

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Technical Knee-Highs

Description 

A more beefed up version of its neighbor Technical Knee-highs climbs a long line of bolts through a roof and finishes heavy on a dicey bulge. This route can be done as a short easy single pitch or one long, more difficult double line.

Option 1: Climb about 60 feet on varnished edges to an anchor below a large roof (5.8).

Option 2: Climb Option 1, but continue past the first anchor clipping one of the chains long. Continue from here and fire through the first crux roof. More technical climbing continues over jugs, edges, and a lie-back crack 3/4's of the way up. Gain a rest and prepare for the final and hard to read bulge. Finish at an anchor 95 feet up. (5.11a)

Location 

Technical Knee-Highs sits on the far north side of the buttress, just right of Non-Technical Church Socks

Protection 

A large selection of draws, and a few slings. The upper anchor for this route is set back behind a bulge, long runners or a cordelette will help reduce rope drag and abrasion.


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By Mary Ellen Man
From: Midvale, UT
May 5, 2014

If you climb this to the first set of anchors it is only 5.9 and a lot of fun.
By brucy
Apr 9, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

At present (10/14) this is a two (2) pitch route. We thought the grading to be at most 10c- there being no move on it harder then "maybe" 10b, and that was at the end going to the anchors by staying in the mini-dihedral on the right.

Best recommendation: end the 1st pitch under the roof; do a short 4 bolt crux second pitch; and, finally, do the current last pitch 5.10a 12 bolt, when, a proper two (2) bolt anchor is installed (as of now it features a single Metolius thick hanger rap bolt). Forward thinking- guys, leaving it like this!
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