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Technical 14er routes
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By Frank Robertson
From Ridgway, CO
Aug 6, 2014
Anyone have anything on the North Face of the Wetterhorn (besides the few words in Roach and Ormes)?

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By slim
Administrator
Aug 6, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
did a route on the N face of wetterhorn a long time ago with my GF's dad. i don't remember too much other than chimneying, cracks, and so/so rock. fairly easy, maybe 5'ish pitches(?). fairly straightforward walkoff (down the normal ascent route, easy 3rd class). it was ok, but not stellar.

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By Frank Robertson
From Ridgway, CO
Aug 7, 2014
Thanks, Slim. With that many pitches, crack/chimney and descent from summit, assume it was Lowe's '74 route. By fairly easy: mostly 5.6 with few section up to 5.8? Anything special about route-finding, pro, etc.?

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By slim
Administrator
Aug 7, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
i think that was what he was wanting to do. i don't remember too much about it, other than not being psyched to wake up that early and it was kind of cold. the climbing didn't seem to really have a single line, but more of a climb-wherever-looks-best sort of path. i wish i paid more attention and took better notes in those days. i would guess around 5.6 or 5.7 interspersed with some scrambling.

IIRC we approached from the south, hiked around the east side, hooked around to the north side.

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By Frank Robertson
From Ridgway, CO
Aug 8, 2014
All sounds right - alpine rock... We're coming from the Cimarron up the Middle Fork and over the col into the headwaters of the East Fork to camp below the NF. We'll come back around on descent as you did over the Wetterhorn / Matterhorn ridge. Thanks again, Slim!

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