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 ADVANCED
Corona/Dos Equis Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chihuahua T 
Flare Play T 
Highwayman, The T 
Ranger Is Watching Me, The T 
Scare Way T 
Secondary Inspection T 
Skid Row (aka Air Play) T 
South Buttress T 
Tecate T 
Tres Equis T 

Tecate 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, December 1997
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 813
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 27, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Corona and Dos Equis Wall

Description 

Yet another classic face climb by Bob Gaines... Begin just left of The Highwayman and make committing moves in a left tending direction to the first bolt. Continue past four more bolts and one piton to the crux section. Very difficult moves are encountered getting to the sixth bolt (tenuous clip!) and short traverse to the thin crack (aka Skyline Finish of The Highwayman) after the 6th bolt. Two more pitons and gear protect the thin crack to the top. Four out of five stars.

Protection 

Quickdraws for 6 bolts and three pitons. TCU's (#1 - #4) or brass / small stoppers are useful for the thin crack finish. Medium cams for the anchor.



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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 6, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Great technical climbing with continuous moves throughout, but the beat-out seam detracts slightly from the overall quality of the route. Three stars out of five.
By Randy
Feb 6, 2004

Bob placed a two bolt anchor atop this route on FA (12/97), but I guess it has been removed. He called it a sport route (with all the fixed gear), but maybe not?
By Vernon Stiefel
Feb 6, 2004

Lighten up Chris...It isn't as if a hammer and chisel were used to make an additional hold. It's my understanding that the edge, large enough for one and a half finger tips, was the result of pounding in a copperhead when the route was established on aid. The climbing is excellent on excellent rock.

Six bolts for 80' of sustained climbing a sport route? How many sport routes require gear placements? Yes, the anchors are gone.
By Bobby Fredin
Nov 29, 2004

Great long climb with good protection of bolts and fixed pins. There is a substantial runout to the first bolt. The moves to the 6th bolt (hard to clip) and the traverse to the crack are very hard. Thought it might be harder than 12b. The anchors at the top are back.
By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 27, 2008

Desperate.
By Richard Shore
Jan 5, 2013

^^^ agreed. Things start easy enough with big holds, you bust a few moves, and just when the angle eases off and you think it's in the bag here comes the SLAP in the face slabby crux. Single-crystal crimping type nastiness. Blew a hole in my finger after about two goes.