Tears of a Clown  5.12c/d

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Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  D. Bohn, B. Scott Submitted By:  Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" on Jan 3, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

In the new Arthur's Rock Bouldering Guide, this is the TR "project" on the Valhalla Boulder.

I've climbed this route several times, probably first on New Year's Day 2000 if not prior iirc. I had never seen any chalk on it prior to my ascents, so that is why I tentatively put my name as FA, although the route is so prominent that it might have been done previously.

This is an excellent route, that, if it were in BC, would have been bolted years ago. As it is, it is a very worthy top rope.

Start right of center on the slabby green streak, then work left at mid height through the red steaks, then fire straight up the black streaks.

Ed: from FA Ben Scott:
"An amazing face climb on the south face of this prominent block. Start with a technical boulder problem to reach the flake past the second bolt. Catch a rest then continue up the stellar headwall on edges."

Location 

This is located on the huge, obvious boulder just below the final switchbacks to the summit of the Arthur's Rock trail.

Protection 

TR. A long static line and a few pieces of gear.

Per Patrick Kehoe: this now has chain anchors.

Per Ben Scott: 5 bolts + a two bolt chain anchor.