Great slab trad lead and a must do for those who consider themselves a slab climber.
Most of the route once you get out of the crack is sequency and follows little edges up to biger holds.
This is frequently toproped and seldom led due to the fall potential if you don't place good pro just under the crux (FYI place a #5 nut)
Just left of New River Gunks, just right of the distortionist, on huge flake.
Good gear down low, 30 ft up it gets a bit runout, make sure to protect as high as you can off lower jugs just before the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Nice ledge before the final fun sequence. Photo by...
BETA PHOTO: Team Jesus, shortly before the crux. Photo by Jeff...
Team Jesus, NRG, WV.
BETA PHOTO: Team Jesus
BETA PHOTO: Team Jesus, balancy crux move to a jug up and righ...
Onsight with Connecticut transplant Nate, get gear...
BETA PHOTO: Good gear options in a horizontal before the short...
|By Brian Adzima|
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Apr 24, 2007
The 5.10a slab left of New River Gunks is pretty cool. Solid gear protects the crux and from experiance I know it will hold a fall or three. As I recall this climb is alittle easier fo tall folks.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Don't be afraid of this one! You can place a piece (or three) from a great stance and move through. Classic one-move wonder.
|By Jeremy Steck|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 8, 2007
Don't let the gear deter you from leading this route. You are near the gear when making the crux move. A great route!
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Jun 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
A fairly unimpressive 1 move wonder. Just cause you can climb it doesn't mean you can climb 10s on gear. In the olden days this would classify as a 5.9+.
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Dec 18, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The old days? Just drive a few hours south and this is a 5.8.
Fun route though.
|By Sam Stephens|
Mar 21, 2011
Gray DMM Peenut protects the highest part of the crack before the "crux".
|By Will Stat|
Jun 23, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Good footwork made this route feel like 5.8. It's also no worse than PG, there's gear at your feet for the crux and then a short runout on 5.7 territory. Not a bad little slab line though.