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 ADVANCED
Old Sandstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack T 
Alligator Wall T,TR 
American Beauty Crack T,TR 
Baker Street TR 
Broken Foot T 
Chez's Chimney T,TR 
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 
Curving Crack T,TR 
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 
Deceptive T,TR 
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 
Everleigh Club Crack T 
Freaky Face T,TR 
Gargantua T,TR 
Girls Named Sue T 
Half Crack T,TR 
Has Been T,TR 
High Life, The TR 
Mammalary Magic T,TR 
One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

Team Arturo 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Arturo?
Page Views: 394
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Aug 6, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Underclings!

Description 

Undercling? Undercling? Where art thou undercling?
Start with some sweet underclings and laybacking, end with a typical Old Sandstone smearing, sloper crimping and sidepulls.

Location 

This shares a start with Dancing Madly and Alligator Wall. Instead of going right under the roof (Dancing) or pulling over the left side (Alligator), follow the "crescent shaped crack" and continue straight up, staying left of the pebbles on Alligator Wall.
A direct version starts 5ft right of Chez's Chimney in the crack up to the lower "crescent shaped crack", which you will milk and pull over when appropriate to ascend the technical face.
"Chez's Chimney Variation" also starts this way but bails into the the chimney. Don't be a daisy and stay on the face.

Protection 

Decent gear at the bottom, micro cams on the top part. Big ol' trees to sling for the TR.


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By Tradoholic
Aug 11, 2009

Spicy lead, the top half is all questionable micro cams in flaring sandstone seams. "R" rated. The direct is a touch harder for the moves going from the lower crescent crack, gaston-ing in the next crack and then laybacking that to gain the upper face. 5.10d.

The left corner is off!
By K.Baker
From: Madison
May 17, 2013

Reports have come in that a bat has nested in one of the underclings and a bite has occurred. Be careful