Team Arturo  5.10b R

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Type:  Trad, TR, 50 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Arturo? Submitted By:  Trad Nanny on Aug 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Underclings!

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Description 

Undercling? Undercling? Where art thou undercling?
Start with some sweet underclings and laybacking, end with a typical Old Sandstone smearing, sloper crimping and sidepulls.

Location 

This shares a start with Dancing Madly and Alligator Wall. Instead of going right under the roof (Dancing) or pulling over the left side (Alligator), follow the "crescent shaped crack" and continue straight up, staying left of the pebbles on Alligator Wall.
A direct version starts 5ft right of Chez's Chimney in the crack up to the lower "crescent shaped crack", which you will milk and pull over when appropriate to ascend the technical face.
"Chez's Chimney Variation" also starts this way but bails into the the chimney. Don't be a daisy and stay on the face.

Protection 

Decent gear at the bottom, micro cams on the top part. Big ol' trees to sling for the TR.