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BETA PHOTO: Underclings!
Undercling? Undercling? Where art thou undercling?
Start with some sweet underclings and laybacking, end with a typical Old Sandstone smearing, sloper crimping and sidepulls.
This shares a start with Dancing Madly and Alligator Wall. Instead of going right under the roof (Dancing) or pulling over the left side (Alligator), follow the "crescent shaped crack" and continue straight up, staying left of the pebbles on Alligator Wall.
A direct version starts 5ft right of Chez's Chimney in the crack up to the lower "crescent shaped crack", which you will milk and pull over when appropriate to ascend the technical face.
"Chez's Chimney Variation" also starts this way but bails into the the chimney. Don't be a daisy and stay on the face.
Decent gear at the bottom, micro cams on the top part. Big ol' trees to sling for the TR.
Aug 11, 2009
Spicy lead, the top half is all questionable micro cams in flaring sandstone seams. "R" rated. The direct is a touch harder for the moves going from the lower crescent crack, gaston-ing in the next crack and then laybacking that to gain the upper face. 5.10d.
The left corner is off!
May 17, 2013
Reports have come in that a bat has nested in one of the underclings and a bite has occurred. Be careful