Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Old Sandstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack 
Alligator Wall 
American Beauty Crack 
Baker Street 
Broken Foot 
Chez's Chimney 
Chez's Chimney variation 
Climber's Arrogance 
Curving Crack 
Dancing Madly Backwards 
Deceptive 
Dirty Little Secret 
Everleigh Club Crack 
Freaky Face 
Gargantua 
Girls Named Sue 
Half Crack 
Has Been 
High Life, The 
Mammalary Magic 
One-Upper 
Out There 
Pacific Ocean Wall 
Ptooey 
Sepsen Wall 
Seven Seas 
Sherlocked 
Swillbillies 
Tarantula 
Team Arturo 
Uberschmidt 
Wave Mechanics 
Wobbly Dihedral 

Team Arturo 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Arturo?
Page Views: 367
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Aug 6, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Underclings!

Description 

Undercling? Undercling? Where art thou undercling?
Start with some sweet underclings and laybacking, end with a typical Old Sandstone smearing, sloper crimping and sidepulls.


Location 

This shares a start with Dancing Madly and Alligator Wall. Instead of going right under the roof (Dancing) or pulling over the left side (Alligator), follow the "crescent shaped crack" and continue straight up, staying left of the pebbles on Alligator Wall.
A direct version starts 5ft right of Chez's Chimney in the crack up to the lower "crescent shaped crack", which you will milk and pull over when appropriate to ascend the technical face.
"Chez's Chimney Variation" also starts this way but bails into the the chimney. Don't be a daisy and stay on the face.


Protection 

Decent gear at the bottom, micro cams on the top part. Big ol' trees to sling for the TR.



Comments on Team Arturo Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Aug 11, 2009

Spicy lead, the top half is all questionable micro cams in flaring sandstone seams. "R" rated. The direct is a touch harder for the moves going from the lower crescent crack, gaston-ing in the next crack and then laybacking that to gain the upper face. 5.10d.

The left corner is off!

By Kevin Baker
From: Madison
May 17, 2013

Reports have come in that a bat has nested in one of the underclings and a bite has occurred. Be careful