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Team 500 

5.11-

   
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
FA: Lance Bateman, Paul Ross (var leads) Andy Ross and help from Andrew Burr 19th Sept/2010
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: USBRIT on Sep 21, 2010

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Paul starting his attempt at P1

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Description 

Named, as this was Paul Ross's 500th first ascent.
Ranging from many in the UK to New Hampshire, Maine, Nevada, Min, Quebec, Morocco,and now the south western States. His first FA was in 1954. Many thanks to the team from Salt Lake. The climb is located at the back of the slabs on a previously unclimbed area with many more objectives. See approach.

P1)Climb into the crack in the very obvious corner,this is protected with cams to a bolt where the crack closes. From the bolt climb left of it on no more than dimples ,until a leap can be made to good holds on the right.Continue from here up flakes to double anchors.100' 5.11-.
P2)From belay move up to the right towards the slim crack groove up to the right to large block belays.50'5.5.
P3)Move into the indefinate crack and passed 2/3 bolts to double anchors at the summit.150'5.8+R

Rap route.


Location 

Three Finger Canyon area. Walk through the canyon and head up the open gully left of the impressive second buttress on the right (see photo of the walk). About 35 mins from the canyon mouth.When the foot of the face is reached head passed two right facing corners to the left facing corner of the climb. See Topo.


Protection 

Cams up to 5", slings, two 60m ropes



Photos of Team 500 Slideshow Add Photo
Ross just below the 5.11 section . The chock stone just above him pulled as he was attempting to climb higher to place the pro bolt causing a fun short fall ,the stone narrowly missing his belayer !! Don't ask about the socks....

Ross just below the 5.11 section . The chock stone...

Andrew with  Lance on his turn at the corner

Andrew with Lance on his turn at the corner

Lance at the crux

Lance at the crux

Lance preparing to leap right to quite good holds

Lance preparing to leap right to quite good holds

Just after landing the jump.

Just after landing the jump.

What the $$@# is going on with these guys?

What the $$@# is going on with these guys?

Near top.

Near top.

Andy on the crux

Andy on the crux

At this point Spiderman  and another Andy arrived with a black static rope and a bunch of cameras!!

At this point Spiderman and another Andy arrived ...

Lance starting third pitch

Lance starting third pitch

Of course it was Spiderman pointing the way....

Of course it was Spiderman pointing the way....

Lance higher on the 5.8+R pitch

Lance higher on the 5.8+R pitch

The route A) Team 500.

The route A) Team 500.

The approach from Three Finger's

The approach from Three Finger's

Early morning looking back at the entrance to Three Fingers...just no one but the Ravens

Early morning looking back at the entrance to Thre...

Start of it all 1953/4. This was a full rack of gear and of course Harris Tweed lycra! Iron X-Army biners.Eventually tested out at about 250 lbs. 120' 11m gold line type rope.slings 1/4" gold line slings.Foot wear Hiking vebram boots or 30 cent sneakers from the Woolworth store

Start of it all 1953/4. This was a full rack of ge...


Comments on Team 500 Add Comment
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By Ben Folsom
Sep 21, 2010

Congrats Paul! That is fantastic.

By mountainsense
Sep 26, 2010

Nice work!