Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Heaven's Gate Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Teacher's Pet S,TR 
Unknown S 

Teacher's Pet 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: A long time ago
Page Views: 1,190
Submitted By: Orphaned on Aug 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Approach 

Climb Schoolroom. Continue about 50' straight above the final pitch up a 5.5 3" crack.

Route Description 

This route climbs a clean slab/face that makes for a pleasant additional pitch to Schoolroom. There are plenty of beginners who will appreciate this strongly protected 5.5 route.

History 

This route has no recorded history because the vast majority of climbers never cared about this little 5.5 X route. It was given a name and bolted for beginners in Aug 2007. Rest assured it isn't the start of grid-bolting in LCC. Beginners have already said plenty of nice things about this route and are really enjoying it now.


Comments on Teacher's Pet Add Comment
Show which comments
By clayhoon
Oct 29, 2007

i don't agree with this route. i did this about ten years ago solo.. no point in grid bolting the whole canyon!!
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Oct 30, 2007

ooo said "And I free soloed it 15 years ago. And plenty of folks free-soloed it before me. Give your ego a rest and let some folks enjoy climbing this."


Yeah, shame on you Clay for having an opinion that differs from the bolter of this route.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Nov 2, 2007

(abusive comments have been deleted from this thread)

Please refrain from using comments for character attacks. It violates rule #1 - don't be jerk.

Have something intelligent to add about the route? Then add it. But keep the junior high name calling to yourself.

Disclaimer: I have no opinion on the route in question. But I do have opinions on people abusing the route database for character attacks.
By clayhoon
Nov 5, 2007

There is no ego involved in a 5.5 slab.. It is just pointless.. There are plenty of killer moderates around.. I have enjoyed most of them also.. It is not cool with me to bolt routes that have history behind them!!! Such as good moderate solos that have already seen first ascents years ago!!
By spencerparkin
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 7, 2011

If I understand correctly, there is a common conception that if the FA of a route was done in a certain style, then all other ascents of that route, no matter their variation of style, must be done with at most or less protection than was used in the original ascent. So for example, if a slab was free-soloed on the FA, then bolting it for future ascents would be considered unethical, even if this gives the route an X severity rating. Unethical, because it _can_ and _was_ done without bolts, and therefore all future ascensionists, (in keeping with the route's history and the purity of the sport), must do the same.

Don't misunderstand; I believe that adding a permanent fixture, such as a bolt, to a rock face should be a decision that is weighed heavily and agreed upon with consensus from the community before it is done, but I get the feeling that some people, (and I'm not intimating anyone here), are perhaps too blinded in their adamancy that, either no rock should ever have fixed hardware, or, that the state of the rock face at the time of the FA must always be reflected in all future ascents of it.
By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Jun 8, 2011

STP, you understand correctly. For the most part, if you get there first, you get to make the call about how things go down -- well up, really -- forever. That's the way it works. First ascentionists have the say so over what happens. The bolts should be removed.
By rth
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 10, 2014

I disagree that the bolts should be removed. I have not climbed this yet and was just searching for something easy and simple yet awesome because its in LCC. I am a granite hound, some say snob because I rarely go to BCC. I like granite and would love to take my kids on some granite. I was searching for something fun, challenging and protected.

My view, if its a face climb, let there be bolts. If its a crack, let it be trad with chains at the top. By the previously stated rational, if I could send .14's I could go in search of <.10's free solo them and call it a day. Name the route, hose all that come after me. Thats not cool and it does nothing to perpetuate the great sport of climbing. I am not saying we should lace up the rock with bolts but really I can have just as much fun on a 7 as a 9.

PS its like there being a rule that I can't lace up a route with trad because the FA only used 5 pieces of pro, oh and no camalots, just nuts, because the FA only used nuts. 5 nuts remember, with short slings.