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Teach me how to Bolt

Original Post
Spencer Weiler · · Grand Junction · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 2,638

Does anyone out there want to teach me how to bolt? My goal is to help replace some bad anchors I've seen around the wasatch/desert when I come upon them but don't have any tools or experience in the matter. I don't think trial and error is the best way to go about this learning process. Thanks

Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,236

Ask Andy at IME

Stevie Nacho · · Utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 671

This is really cool of Spencer to ask this. I'm pretty busy, however I can teach you in a couple of weeks.

Jburton · · Ogden · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Mikewhite on here does a ton of re-bolting / replacing stuff in the Wasatch for the ASCA and does it as good as anyone. Send him a message.

Spencer Weiler · · Grand Junction · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 2,638

Stevie: I may pm you if you're serious about helping me learn when you get a chance.

I'd also heard the mike white name but his profile says his last visit was 2006 which is before I started climbing so I'm not totally confident his contact works, but maybe I'll try.

If you see some gomer up Lcc struggling to replace some old 1/4s feel free to yell at me some advice

Jburton · · Ogden · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

mikewhite - all one word. Last visit 12 hours ago.

apross · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,731

Stop by IME, anyone can give you the lowdown in 10 mins.
Bring Beer.

Stevie Nacho · · Utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 671

If you haven't found the instruction you need in a couple of week, please contact me. You can skip the beer or bring a bunch. Whatever ales ya

tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,023

Mike and several others are talking about finally working on the Choss Garden re-bolting this weekend or next. Come join the fun because several old hats at this stuff will be there. I can tell you from experience that proper bolt removal can be tricky. Getting stuff done right is hard.

Spencer Weiler · · Grand Junction · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 2,638

Thanks everyone for the kind works and offerings for help. Many people have contacted me with unselfish attitudes to help me learn. Great to see so many people willing to help out us newbs. Glad to hear the Choss Garden is up for replacement. Would love to come but have other family commitments. Hope to meet all of you and get some new hardware placed in the future.

Stevie Nacho · · Utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 671

Big Cottonwood would be a great place to learn bolting. The rock is dang hard, therefore the chances of botching the bolt lessen. The real crux is not getting the bit stuck and burning through eight bits putting in one route! If you want to bolt soft stone, it takes a little different approach. On the soft rock, I only use 1/2 rawls. I've found that the chances of ending up with a spinner increase with 3/8 bolts. Also, I never use "red head" wedge type anchors in soft stone. I know many hate them, but I still think angles hammered into holes have their place as well. Lately I've been doing the glue in thing due to the fact that I was given a ton of them. They take patience (which I do not have) and more care. Most importantly, don't put a bolt where you can get gear.

Skat B · · Down Rodeo · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,075

If someone doesn't bolt a set of chains at the top of "The Stone They Rejected" then I may just break down and do it myself - even though I've never bolted a route before. Every time I leave webbing w/ new biners and it gets stolen. I realize that you can get off via Goldfinger anchors but not as fun!

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

@ Skat:
I hope you're trolling.

Adding anchors isn't cool without FA permission. There's been too much of that in the last 5 years or so. Don't get us started.

Skat B · · Down Rodeo · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,075
zoso wrote:@ Skat: I hope you're trolling. Adding anchors isn't cool without FA permission. There's been too much of that in the last 5 years or so. Don't get us started.
The FA was free soloed and has since been bolted. No, I'm not trolling.
Ben Folsom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,575

It's a pretty easy walk off. About 25 seconds.

Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541
Skat B wrote:Every time I leave webbing w/ new biners and it gets stolen. I realize that you can get off via Goldfinger anchors but not as fun!
Don't leave webbing w/ new biners? I mean, it's not like there's a tree to sling for any TRing you might want to do and the easiest walk-off in the canyon... Anchors added to that route will be taken down faster than your stuff gets stolen.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640
apross wrote:Stop by IME, anyone can give you the lowdown in 10 mins. Bring Beer.
Andy knows bolting..it's in his genetic make-up.
Skat B · · Down Rodeo · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,075
Boissal wrote: Don't leave webbing w/ new biners? I mean, it's not like there's a tree to sling for any TRing you might want to do and the easiest walk-off in the canyon... Anchors added to that route will be taken down faster than your stuff gets stolen.
So you're saying that if I put in permanent anchors into the rock at the base of the pine tree you are going to chock them off?? I'm trying to contribute to the climbing community here by making things more convenient for future climbers and I get threats instead? I wouldn't be altering or shortening the route in any way! So what if it's a simple walk off?

By your logic I should chop off the four bolts on that line since the FA was a free solo onsight - having bolts would be an insult to Gary Olson, the FA!
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

rock and ice says all climbers should improve anchors and bolt new routes so it must be true

Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541
Skat B wrote: So you're saying that if I put in permanent anchors into the rock at the base of the pine tree you are going to chock them off?? I'm trying to contribute to the climbing community here by making things more convenient for future climbers and I get threats instead? I wouldn't be altering or shortening the route in any way! So what if it's a simple walk off? By your logic I should chop off the four bolts on that line since the FA was a free solo onsight - having bolts would be an insult to Gary Olson, the FA!
I doubt I'd be the first to reach for the wrench if you put anchors in... But if I did stumble on chains next to a massive tree, a set of cracks and a walk off I'd certainly be glad to re-use them atop a route which actually benefits from fixed anchors.

As far as chopping the bolts, maybe you should get a clue about the history of the route before running with your straw man argument. The retro-bolters weren't aware that the route had been climbed before. Gary stated that nobody in their right mind would have soloed the line, including himself when he came back to it. He has no qualms with the bolts. In your case you'd be adding an anchor with full knowledge that the route was established without since it has a perfectly safe natural or trad anchor and a ridiculously short walkoff.

Way to miss the point of a thread about learning to bolt in order to eliminate unsafe hardware and bring in your entitled attitude about convenience anchors. Please refrain from using a power drill when you go up there, it's wilderness.
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
Skat B wrote: So you're saying that if I put in permanent anchors into the rock at the base of the pine tree you are going to chock them off?? I'm trying to contribute to the climbing community here by making things more convenient for future climbers and I get threats instead? I wouldn't be altering or shortening the route in any way! So what if it's a simple walk off? By your logic I should chop off the four bolts on that line since the FA was a free solo onsight - having bolts would be an insult to Gary Olson, the FA!
Making climbs more convenient tends to do more harm then good to a route. There are more productive contributions you could make.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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