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Teach me how to Bolt
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By Spencer Weiler
From SLC, UT
Mar 19, 2014
adf
Does anyone out there want to teach me how to bolt? My goal is to help replace some bad anchors I've seen around the wasatch/desert when I come upon them but don't have any tools or experience in the matter. I don't think trial and error is the best way to go about this learning process. Thanks

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By USBRIT
From Cumbria.UK
Mar 19, 2014
Ask Andy at IME

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By Stevie Nacho
From Utah
Mar 21, 2014
This is really cool of Spencer to ask this. I'm pretty busy, however I can teach you in a couple of weeks.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 21, 2014
send a note to Greg at the ASCA- he can put you in touch with replacement volunteers in the SLC area.

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By LCC-Climber
Mar 21, 2014
Mikewhite on here does a ton of re-bolting / replacing stuff in the Wasatch for the ASCA and does it as good as anyone. Send him a message.

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By Spencer Weiler
From SLC, UT
Mar 21, 2014
adf
Stevie: I may pm you if you're serious about helping me learn when you get a chance.

I'd also heard the mike white name but his profile says his last visit was 2006 which is before I started climbing so I'm not totally confident his contact works, but maybe I'll try.

If you see some gomer up Lcc struggling to replace some old 1/4s feel free to yell at me some advice

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By LCC-Climber
Mar 21, 2014
mikewhite - all one word. Last visit 12 hours ago.

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By apross
Mar 21, 2014
We are watching you
Stop by IME, anyone can give you the lowdown in 10 mins.
Bring Beer.

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By Stevie Nacho
From Utah
Mar 22, 2014
If you haven't found the instruction you need in a couple of week, please contact me. You can skip the beer or bring a bunch. Whatever ales ya

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By tenesmus
Mar 26, 2014
Mike and several others are talking about finally working on the Choss Garden re-bolting this weekend or next. Come join the fun because several old hats at this stuff will be there. I can tell you from experience that proper bolt removal can be tricky. Getting stuff done right is hard.

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By Spencer Weiler
From SLC, UT
Mar 26, 2014
adf
Thanks everyone for the kind works and offerings for help. Many people have contacted me with unselfish attitudes to help me learn. Great to see so many people willing to help out us newbs. Glad to hear the Choss Garden is up for replacement. Would love to come but have other family commitments. Hope to meet all of you and get some new hardware placed in the future.

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By Stevie Nacho
From Utah
Mar 28, 2014
Big Cottonwood would be a great place to learn bolting. The rock is dang hard, therefore the chances of botching the bolt lessen. The real crux is not getting the bit stuck and burning through eight bits putting in one route! If you want to bolt soft stone, it takes a little different approach. On the soft rock, I only use 1/2 rawls. I've found that the chances of ending up with a spinner increase with 3/8 bolts. Also, I never use "red head" wedge type anchors in soft stone. I know many hate them, but I still think angles hammered into holes have their place as well. Lately I've been doing the glue in thing due to the fact that I was given a ton of them. They take patience (which I do not have) and more care. Most importantly, don't put a bolt where you can get gear.

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By Skat B
From Down Rodeo
Mar 31, 2014
St George
If someone doesn't bolt a set of chains at the top of "The Stone They Rejected" then I may just break down and do it myself - even though I've never bolted a route before. Every time I leave webbing w/ new biners and it gets stolen. I realize that you can get off via Goldfinger anchors but not as fun!

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By zoso
Mar 31, 2014
avatar
@ Skat:
I hope you're trolling.

Adding anchors isn't cool without FA permission. There's been too much of that in the last 5 years or so. Don't get us started.

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By Skat B
From Down Rodeo
Apr 1, 2014
St George
zoso wrote:
@ Skat: I hope you're trolling. Adding anchors isn't cool without FA permission. There's been too much of that in the last 5 years or so. Don't get us started.


The FA was free soloed and has since been bolted. No, I'm not trolling.

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By Ben Folsom
Apr 2, 2014
Rosco, A fine animal.
It's a pretty easy walk off. About 25 seconds.

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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Apr 2, 2014
Skat B wrote:
Every time I leave webbing w/ new biners and it gets stolen. I realize that you can get off via Goldfinger anchors but not as fun!

Don't leave webbing w/ new biners? I mean, it's not like there's a tree to sling for any TRing you might want to do and the easiest walk-off in the canyon... Anchors added to that route will be taken down faster than your stuff gets stolen.

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By john strand
From southern colo
Apr 2, 2014
apross wrote:
Stop by IME, anyone can give you the lowdown in 10 mins. Bring Beer.

Andy knows bolting..it's in his genetic make-up.

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By Skat B
From Down Rodeo
Apr 2, 2014
St George
Boissal wrote:
Don't leave webbing w/ new biners? I mean, it's not like there's a tree to sling for any TRing you might want to do and the easiest walk-off in the canyon... Anchors added to that route will be taken down faster than your stuff gets stolen.


So you're saying that if I put in permanent anchors into the rock at the base of the pine tree you are going to chock them off?? I'm trying to contribute to the climbing community here by making things more convenient for future climbers and I get threats instead? I wouldn't be altering or shortening the route in any way! So what if it's a simple walk off?

By your logic I should chop off the four bolts on that line since the FA was a free solo onsight - having bolts would be an insult to Gary Olson, the FA!

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By Miike
From MA/CT border
Apr 2, 2014
my foot
rock and ice says all climbers should improve anchors and bolt new routes so it must be true

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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Apr 2, 2014
Skat B wrote:
So you're saying that if I put in permanent anchors into the rock at the base of the pine tree you are going to chock them off?? I'm trying to contribute to the climbing community here by making things more convenient for future climbers and I get threats instead? I wouldn't be altering or shortening the route in any way! So what if it's a simple walk off? By your logic I should chop off the four bolts on that line since the FA was a free solo onsight - having bolts would be an insult to Gary Olson, the FA!

I doubt I'd be the first to reach for the wrench if you put anchors in... But if I did stumble on chains next to a massive tree, a set of cracks and a walk off I'd certainly be glad to re-use them atop a route which actually benefits from fixed anchors.

As far as chopping the bolts, maybe you should get a clue about the history of the route before running with your straw man argument. The retro-bolters weren't aware that the route had been climbed before. Gary stated that nobody in their right mind would have soloed the line, including himself when he came back to it. He has no qualms with the bolts. In your case you'd be adding an anchor with full knowledge that the route was established without since it has a perfectly safe natural or trad anchor and a ridiculously short walkoff.

Way to miss the point of a thread about learning to bolt in order to eliminate unsafe hardware and bring in your entitled attitude about convenience anchors. Please refrain from using a power drill when you go up there, it's wilderness.

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By Greg D
From Here
Apr 2, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Skat B wrote:
So you're saying that if I put in permanent anchors into the rock at the base of the pine tree you are going to chock them off?? I'm trying to contribute to the climbing community here by making things more convenient for future climbers and I get threats instead? I wouldn't be altering or shortening the route in any way! So what if it's a simple walk off? By your logic I should chop off the four bolts on that line since the FA was a free solo onsight - having bolts would be an insult to Gary Olson, the FA!


Making climbs more convenient tends to do more harm then good to a route. There are more productive contributions you could make.

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By Skat B
From Down Rodeo
Apr 2, 2014
St George
Boissal wrote:
Please refrain from using a power drill when you go up there, it's wilderness.


When I broke my ankle in a fall I bolted a basketball-sized piece of granite with a hand drill and it took me 45 minutes to finish the job. Now I have a Bosch 24-V Rotary Hammer Drill so I'm eager to try it out; however, after reading what you posted, I won't be touching any established routes - sport or trad. I still would like to put up my own lines somewhere in Ferguson though.

Oh, and that bit about Lynn Wheeler...wow, what an awesome dude! Tragic story though.


Greg D wrote:
Making climbs more convenient tends to do more harm then good to a route. There are more productive contributions you could make.


Such as? I'm open to ideas.

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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Apr 2, 2014
Skat B wrote:
When I broke my ankle in a fall I bolted a basketball-sized piece of granite with a hand drill and it took me 45 minutes to finish the job. Now I have a Bosch 24-V Rotary Hammer Drill so I'm eager to try it out; however, after reading what you posted, I won't be touching any established routes - sport or trad. I still would like to put up my own lines somewhere in Ferguson though. Oh, and that bit about Lynn Wheeler...wow, what an awesome dude! Tragic story though. Such as? I'm open to ideas.

Hand-drilling is definitely the strongest incentive to put up mixed routes and limit the number of bolts! There's been new development in Fergy last year (Eldorado and a few other lines) with room for more, get after it and do it well!

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By Brian in SLC
Apr 2, 2014
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
^^^Careful with the Wilderness boundary in Ferguson too...

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By Greg D
From Here
Apr 2, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Clean trash, clean chalk, replace existing anchors, improve trails where allowed, paint shiny bolts, for example.

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