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Crawdaddy S 
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Tea and Strumpets S 

Tea and Strumpets 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brent McDaniel
Page Views: 889
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Repelling down

Description 

Climb up past an overhang to a stance below the roof. Step left and pull the roof at the corner on good holds. Continue up the face to anchors.


Location 

The second pair of bolted routes when approaching the cliff from the trail that crosses below the falls. The left climb is Tea and Strumpets, the right climb is Crawdaddy.


Protection 

5 bolts, anchors



Photos of Tea and Strumpets Slideshow Add Photo
Tea&Strumpets. Climber: Classic City Creeper
Tea&Strumpets. Climber: Classic City Creeper
Almost to the top!!
Almost to the top!!
Moving through the roof on Tea & Strumpets 10a
Moving through the roof on Tea & Strumpets 10a
Comments on Tea and Strumpets Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Oct 30, 2008

Nice warm-up for 10's. Nicely protected.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 18, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The start is pretty tough, so stickclipping the first bolt is a good idea.

The last bolt (just above the roof) is very poorly placed.

By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Jul 23, 2009

I don't remember anything odd about the bolting. What's wrong with the last bolt?

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

It's way left of the climbing line. My buddy who led the route couldn't clip it til he was above the bolt.

By ClassiCityCreeper
From: Athens, GA.
Oct 18, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Im Avg. Height and had no problems with any of the clips, 2nd clip is super fun. Soft imo

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
May 18, 2013

Led this on gear last weekend. Protects pretty well.

By Kate Mittendorf
From: Nashville, TN
Nov 14, 2013

In my opinion, the bolting is a little bit odd, but not cuz it's hard to clip, more because of rope-drag issues. Definitely don't go having partners topdog it on your best rope, that's for sure. Easy warm up if you are headed to the White Wall.

By Matthew Bishop
From: Birmingham, Alabama
Nov 26, 2013

Bolts very poorly placed. The placement of the second bolt allows for a side-loading of a draw - drastically decreasing its safety factor (<7 KN). Bolts above the little roof are equally poor in placement, and yield excessive drag. The bolts should be repurposed to a much clean line either to the right or left. If you are looking for a warm-up route climb the one just to the right it's call crawdaddy (10a).

By Kate Mittendorf
From: Nashville, TN
Apr 19, 2014

I have climbed this route a number of times and never seen side loading at the second bolt (just under the first, smaller roof). Many of my friends have fallen at that bulge move without consequence... Although perhaps we climb it differently, which would lead to the rope in a different place...