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Taylors Falls and North Shore Conditions
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By ben schuldt
From Morris, MN
Apr 7, 2014
me in mid summer on the column direct
Does anyone know what the conditions are like in Taylors Falls? I'm hoping to get out there this weekend with a group of friends (non climbers) and am concerned about the amount of snow/water/wet that accompanies springtime. Thoughts? How is the MN Strip?

Also, does anyone know what the trail/park conditions are like in the Tettegouche area? I'm hoping to get out there by the end of April and want to know if it will be worth the trip for some climbing and hiking.

Thanks, all!

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By Chad Miller
From Grand Junction, CO
Apr 9, 2014
Smile for the camera.  Me topping out of Pice of Cake, Taylors Falls MN <br />
Wet. Very very wet.

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By MPG
From Lake Placid, NY
Apr 9, 2014
Wasn't Taylor's or the North Shore, but I was up at Sandstone this morning. Several inches of snow still on the ground, but the walls were mostly dry. A few started dripping as they came into the sun. I've heard there is still quite a snowpack closer to Duluth though.

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By mark55401
From Minneapolis
Apr 10, 2014
14K
hey, did I run into you at Palisade Head this fall on a really cold, gray day when only you and your partner were climbing?

anyway, Taylors is climbable right now; a bit soggy but no big deal

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By Pontoon
From Minneapolis, Minnesota
Apr 10, 2014
Soggy on the ground or soggy on the rock? Apparently it's bad ethics to climb wet rock. If it's just the ground sounds like not a problem to me! I just bring a tarp or carpet to keep the feet dry--otherwise muddy feet polish the rock over time.

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By EricV
From Woodbury, MN
Apr 14, 2014
MN Fishing!
Resurrecting this for the others in the twin cities:

Anyone been out to Taylors/Red Wing? I really want to get out there, but haven't heard much on conditions. It sounds like this week is supposed to be wet... but thought I would ask.

Thanks all!

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By CrazyCranium
From Eden Prairie, MN
Apr 17, 2014
I was out at Taylors Falls last Saturday (4/12). We were down on the Minnesota Strip and most of the routes were pretty dry. However, they did get about 5" of snow last night, so that may have changed. Hopefully it will be clear by the weekend.

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By Pontoon
From Minneapolis, Minnesota
Apr 17, 2014
CrazyCranium, how busy is Taylors this time of year? I know on the weekends some people feel it's a good idea to get there really early. Important to arrive early this time of year?

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By CrazyCranium
From Eden Prairie, MN
Apr 17, 2014
Depends how good the weather is. Last Satuday was raining in the morning but dry in the afternoon, although cloudy and a bit on the cool side. We only saw one other pair of climbers on the MN strip, which is usually one of the busier areas.

However, I remember a weekend around this time last year where almost every route on the strip was occupied because it was 70 and sunny, so your mileage may vary.

Another note, while for some rock types (especially sandstone), it can be harmful to climb on after a rain, the rock at Taylors Falls is all basalt which does not absorb water or lose strength after a rain. So feel free to climb at Taylors as soon as the rain stops and the surface is dry without worrying about damaging the rock.

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By Pontoon
From Minneapolis, Minnesota
Apr 17, 2014
Good to know, thanks. And what's the etiquette for showing up with a group of let's say 6 people. This group might have 5 ropes between them. Do they set 5 routes while only being able to climb 3 at a time? Is there a rule of thumb for snagging routes in such a popular place?

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By Chad Miller
From Grand Junction, CO
Apr 18, 2014
Smile for the camera.  Me topping out of Pice of Cake, Taylors Falls MN <br />
Pontoon wrote:
Good to know, thanks. And what's the etiquette for showing up with a group of let's say 6 people. This group might have 5 ropes between them. Do they set 5 routes while only being able to climb 3 at a time? Is there a rule of thumb for snagging routes in such a popular place?


General rules of thumb:


Don't snag a bunch of routes and not have people ready to climb them. If you have three pairs of climbers set three routes.

If you do set a bunch of routes and you aren't climbing on them at that moment let others use your rope and climb.

Be kind and if someone asks to lead a route you have a top rope on and no one is climbing it let them squeeze in. It's not going to take more that 15 minutes and everyone goes away happy.

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By Zhengmu W.
Apr 30, 2014
bbb
Chad Miller wrote:
General rules of thumb: Don't snag a bunch of routes and not have people ready to climb them. If you have three pairs of climbers set three routes. If you do set a bunch of routes and you aren't climbing on them at that moment let others use your rope and climb. Be kind and if someone asks to lead a route you have a top rope on and no one is climbing it let them squeeze in. It's not going to take more that 15 minutes and everyone goes away happy.

Well said.

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By SeanFoster
May 8, 2014
Shovel Point, North Shore, MN
Chad posted some North Shore condition reports in the minnesota climbers group on Facebook. Thanks, Chad!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mnclimbers/

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