|The Dark Heart
|East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only|
Some areas require a guide.
Arete and compression climbing on perfect rock. More about finesse than power.
Start on double underclings and lunge to a sloper. Bump your left hand up the arete and make a hard move to a sidepull on the face. Shuffle up the arete some more, go to another sidepull. Move your feet out right, cross over to a sloper, match, and fire for the lip.
The last 3 moves are the hardest. Would get 4 stars if it wasn't so close to other boulders.
The PG13 comes from the eerily close wall behind you when you toss for the top. No one ever hit it, but it feels like you could.
Left end of the Dark Heart.
Bring at least 3 pads and one spotter. More is better.
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 11, 2013
It is interesting, because I would have said the opposite, that the first 3 move are the hardest and the last three are kind of delicate and keep you on edge but are generally easier. Maybe it was less humid when I did it, either way it is a great problem. I did not notice the wall behind me for the finish but it is still kind of crammed in a corner which detracts a little from the overall aesthetics.