Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, East Face
 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden 
Blue Velvet 
Captain Fingers 
Dominion 
East Chimney 
Fang-Left Side, The 
Farley 
Fracture, The 
Gallows Pole (direct) 
Grand Illusion 
Harding's Chimney 
Lady Luck 
Lurch 
Mini-Illusion, The 
Monkey Flower 
Morticia 
Opus 7 
Scheister 
South Summit Bolt Ladder 
Stone 
Swallow Tail 
Taurus 
Telesis 

Taurus 

5.11b

   
2,811 page views
Good page?   

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
FA: Mark Hudon and Max Jones, 1977
Submitted By: caughtinside on Feb 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Crux moves on Taurus.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Taurus is an outstanding thin crack to lieback. The crux comes right off the ground, moving on good locks with smear feet. You can get a good nut, then small but solid gear. Pull the .11b crux to a stance. Then, climb the finger crack up, do some strenuous .10 lieback underclinging out left. Finish up a mantel and walk up the ramp to the chains.

This route was soloed by first ascentionist Mark Hudon in the late 70s, so get after it!


Location 

This is just uphill from Farley, and just downhill from The Fracture.


Protection 

Gear to 2".



Photos of Taurus Slideshow Add Photo
crux from a different angle

crux from a different angle

here onward sustained

here onward sustained

Christina working through the crux start of Taurus.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano

Christina working through the crux start of Taurus...

Christina gets into the undercling on Taurus.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano

Christina gets into the undercling on Taurus.

Ph...



Comments on Taurus Add Comment
Show which comments
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a PG13

My first .11 flash on gear.

Fantastic route, technical and smeary crux in the first 20 feet with bomber finger locks in the pods, but the real crux is placing gear.

Crux section takes a medium sized nut and a blue Alien, then shoot for a jug at the good rest 20 feet up.

Second section is sustained .10+, sick liebacking and underclinging. You get an okay rest to place gear when the lieback turns to undercling. After that, forget the gear and shoot for the top before the pump clock runs out.

Being tall makes this route easier. At 6'4", I'd give this route .10+/11-

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 13, 2009

Ditto... this route is fantastic, and sustained. Climbing the crux clean doesn't mean you'll style the rest of the line, as the moves stay decidedly un-trivial till the "jug" holds after the undercling/layback.

Protect the opening moves with a nut and a small cam (I used a purple Metolius Master Cam; it worked splendidly). After that, punch it to a good ledge and get ready for the 10+ business.

Awesome...

By Monica Jones
Apr 25, 2010

I toproped this climb once first and then led it. I'm only 5'1'' and thought it was going to be reachy but it wasn't at all. I also placed a purple metolius TCU but placed a green alien in lieu of a nut and then gunned for the jug. Classic climb.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.11a

IMO, as good as The Fracture, and not too much harder. The gear is a little bit trickier to place, but solid. After the crux, the difficulty backs off significantly but remains challenging and is super fun.

Having some stretch won't hurt on the lower crux, but it certainly isn't a requirement.