|Type:||Trad, 15 pitches, 1420', Grade V|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||joe french, caleb padgett,zach lee... feb 2009|
|Submitted By:||javi on Aug 22, 2012|
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|Comments on Tatoween||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Caleb Padgett
From: Rockville, utah
Aug 23, 2012
|This is a fantastic line. The climbing is varied and sustained. This wall is HOT. We established it over the course of a few weeks in January. When the daytime temps were in the high 50's we were climbing in t-shirts. The bivy ledge is prime and stays much warmed than the canyon below. The last pitch is likely in the 5.10 range, don't get your hopes up thinking you have an easy 5.5 to the top. This route deserves more traffic and is surprisingly clean and (relatively) moderate considering its length and steepness of the wall.|
By Ethan Newman
Dec 13, 2012
What a line! Matty VB and I climbed it on 12/13/12. We got away with doubles from blue metolius to BD 3, with one BD 4 and a purple metolius with extra finger sizes (yellow metolius to red metolius). We were able to link p1/2 (extend under roof), p4/5 (with some simuling and a stance belay), p 8/9, an p13/14 (plan for rope drag).
Approach: chinle trail to huber wash, walk up the wash until it starts getting really blocky and steep. Look for cairns on the right, follow them up the steep dirt/sand slope until you're above the springdale band. Then head left, crossing over the wash, and up a spine of dirt towards the second huge buttress left of king's corner. Reverse to descend. About 2-3 hours.
Descent: We did single rope raps from the summit to the top of guidebook p11. Tat around blocks, etc. makes this possible. Be careful on the rap from the top of p11 to the top of p9; there is some rope eating varnish. From there, the raps are pretty good double rope raps.
All in all, a sweet climb.
Also, the rope tat on the summit rap needs to be replaced soon.
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Feb 4, 2013
Do you need to permit to bivy on this route?
edit: From what I've been able to find no permit is required to bivy on this route. Could someone verify this information?
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 5, 2013
|My understanding is that a permit is required for any climbing bivy within Zion National Park, even if the approach starts outside the park.|
Feb 17, 2013
|anybody got a topo?|