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Tatoosh 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,633
Submitted By: Scott W on May 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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Tatoosh from the Base

Thin fingers can be seen to...

Description 

Good gear the whole way, bring a good sized rack with a full set of stoppers and doubles in the finger sized pieces. Lots of finger-locking up corners. Finishes on steep holds just above a recently cut stump. Great climb!

update:7/31/2011- The stump has been removed thanks to the valiant efforts of Chris Hensen. This route used to be called Free at Last, now it's just Tatoosh. If instead of going up the dihedral, you break right half way up and head up the offwidth, it links into P2 of the original Tatoosh route(4 pitches long, goes all way the to the top of the wall). There's fun climbing on the original Tatoosh, really fun actually. I tried to clean it up a few years ago, but it was a FUNNEL of debris. I dug out the cracks on the upper pitches and loosed tons of blocks, but I imagine the 5.2 section getting to them is still packed with dirt.

Location 

Starts 3 feet right of Thin Fingers on the recently brushed dihedral.

Protection 

Standard rack up to 2" inches, doubles in finger sized gear.


Photos of Tatoosh Slideshow Add Photo
View of the upper layback from the top. <br /> <br />Photo by Kyle Pease
View of the upper layback from the top.

Photo by ...
Dan at the top of the chimney section of Tatoosh
Dan at the top of the chimney section of Tatoosh

Comments on Tatoosh Add Comment
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By blakeherrington
Dec 21, 2008

You need a 70m rope to rap/lower/TR this one. You *might* be able to swing over to intermediate anchors on Thin fingers to get back to the ground if you only have a 60m.
By Eric8
From: Framingham
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Although this route may have been 10b before it was cleaned; with the bolt and the removal of the stump/major cleaning it feels like the easiest 10 at index...
By Eric Fjellanger
Jul 17, 2009

The description and name of this route seem to agree with Darryl Cramer's Sky Valley Rock, although it is now nice and clean.

stanford.edu/~clint/index/ltwr...

This route seems to be what the Cummins Guide calls "Free at Last, 5.10b R".

Either way, a fun route!
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 11, 2011

This is one of my favorite routes at Index. A rewarding mix of crack, technical stemming, and a little chimney/offwidth thrown in for good measure.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Beautiful route, long and Technical fun.
By Laurel Fan
Jun 5, 2014

If one is unsure about the moves and/or gear before the first bolt, it is possible to cheat the start by scrambling in from climber's right to the ledge above the bolt.
By Rohan Balakrishnan
Aug 24, 2014

One can also place a pretty good #0.5 cam in a slot a few feet below the bolt before making the moves up to the bolt. It's pretty heady since there is the possibility of decking, but if you trust your feet, you'll be fine :)