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Chilly Willy Wall
Routes Sorted
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Candy Corn S 
Donkey Show S 
Giant Boulder Left S 
Giant Boulder Middle S 
Giant Boulder Right S 
No Sketching S 
Tasty Freeze T 
Turkey Sandwich T 
Wet Willies S 

Tasty Freeze 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Burns, Schillaci
Page Views: 1,082
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on May 12, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Tasty Freeze (5.9), Chilly Willy Wall, Las Conchas...

Description 

Start up by stemming between the wall and the boulder pile, or by climbing the loose-ish flakes on the face, clipping a bolt along the way. Or just scramble up the boulder pile (you might miss the first bolt if you do that, though). Clip the second bolt and stretch for a bomber jug. Pull through to a solid stance to place some hand-sized pro, then angle up to the right, liebacking and protecting the semi-detached flake. Find the third bolt in the face to the left, and step left across the face to another semi-detached flake. Top out by following this, or apparently one can continue straight up through scoops (a little run-out, maybe safer to try that on toprope). Both options reach a big ledge with a bolted anchor at eye level on the face behind (allowing for a decent toprope setup).
Previously described by Jett and Samet (1991:84), Beverly (2006:58), and Jackson (2006:211). Jett and Samet gave this route an "R-" annotation, and the other two guides call it "R", although I'm not sure why; maybe if you choose the right finish through the scoops?

Location 

Begin in a little alley just left of the boulder pile, just to the right of a black streak on the wall.

Protection 

Three bolts (two fairly low on the route). Trad rack with mostly larger gear (save #3 and #4 Camalots for the upper left exit crack). (although I have heard of someone leading this on only the bolts!! scary-bold, or foolish?)
Two-bolt anchor at the top (actually one closed cold shut and a bolt with a chain). Either rappel or walk off (actually a class 3 scramble-off). Once you know where the anchors are you could set this as a toprope if you walk up the backside.


Photos of Tasty Freeze Slideshow Add Photo
Enjoying the fun liebacking section of <em>Tasty Freeze</em> July 12, 2008. Photo by Michael Wheat.
Enjoying the fun liebacking section of Tasty F...

Comments on Tasty Freeze Add Comment
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 13, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Jemez Rock lists an independent line as Unnamed (5.10+) just left of Tasty Freeze. I'm not sure where it is.

I think only 1 logical "mixed bolts + gear" climb exists in section of Chilly Willy Wall, and it goes at about 5.9 and is Tasty Freeze. Maybe if you don't stem off the block at the beginning, and stay left rather than clip the 2nd bolt, you could make it a contrived 5.10+ by staying left of the black streak (not protected well, but could be toproped).]

After some discussion with a few folks, we figure that Tasty Freeze probably follows the line marked as Unknown 5.10+ in 'Jemez Rock', rather than the line where it is marked to the right, in the same book.
By Bryan T
Aug 9, 2009

Quality route. Good holds. Fun!

Use a .75 C4 once you are standing on the huge Jug, then get the first lie-back and throw in a #3, hit the next bolt and make a few face moves then throw in a #4 at the top. Quick draws work fine for drag.

Wouldn't hurt to have 30' of webbing to extend the anchor at the top if you're gonna top rope it, to prevent massive drag.

Not sure what the R rating is. Possibly if done without pro or directly up the face without the boulder, but if done without the bolder pile it would proly be beyond 5.9