||Mixed, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade III
|Original: ||M4 [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Wolf, Ben Collett, March 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,275|
|Submitted By: ||Ben Collett on Mar 14, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: The route.
For a route of moderate grade, this route is remarkably continuous, steep and entertaining. It also has a very short approach (about 10 minutes from Emerald Lake).
From the col climb about 45 meters up turfy fun and through a little section of chimney. Belay on a ledgy alcove about 40 feet below the roof. Climb up to and through the roof and onto easier ground above. Either belay at a fixed nut or a bit further up. Climb a last, surprisingly long pitch up to the trees on the ridge.
We descended the ridge towards Bear Lake until we could drop through "the Terrain Park" back to the trail. Midwinter, however, it might be more wise to rappel the route.
This route is located on the wall on the south side of Emerald Lake that is on the north side of the ridge between Tyndall Gorge and Chaos Canyon. Level with where the trail meets Emerald Lake is a section of more continuous cliff with a shallow, left-trending gully on its left side. About halfway up you'll see a roof in it. The route follows this gully. From the terminus of the trail hike straight up the hill and start on a small col at the top of the scree field.
Single rack of rock gear up to a #4 Friend-sized piece.
By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 13, 2011
This route is a bit loose in the upper half and knocking off small stuff (mostly) was unavoidable. We did pull off one fairly large rock but you can shelter the belays just fine. A couple thin pins might provide better pro on P3 blasting through the choss. Most of my pieces were in suspect rock.
The crux P2 roof is really fun and well protected and if the top cleaned up I would give it more stars. It's a nice short approach moderate for the park but not one you'll come back to again and again.
We fixed rap stations at the top and 20 feet above the roof for double rope raps and scrambled off from there. You could down lead if needed. It would be great if these stuck around so the route is climbable during high avy danger. The stations are pretty solid and sheltered from rockfall (2 trees and 2 nuts) though some additional tat might be nice to pack just in case.