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Sweet Rock
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Taste the Rainbow 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Dudley
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,445
Submitted By: Daryl Allan on Apr 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: Halfway up Taste the Rainbow. Killer views from t...

Description 

Thought-provoking moves on the slightly overhanging second half. Those patient enough to tolerate some brittle rock at the start are in for a treat on the gymnastic upper half.

Step into the bottom of an obvious impression, clip up, then move out right to a ledge. From top of ledge, move back left onto the route and up. From here on up, to keep the route at the grade, the route is intended to follow line to the left and over bolts; not up the crack on the right.

Pulling the route direct at the bottom and/or to the right of the bolt line pushes the grade up quite a bit.

Location 

Currently the only route on the south face of the rock. Go through gate in fence downhill from right-most end of Sweet Rock then hike up and around to back side. Going around this way helps avoid the bees in the tree against the rock and just past the fence.

Protection 

9 bolts to chain anchors


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By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jun 9, 2009

The bees in the tree just past the fence and up close to the wall are very active now. If hiking around to TTR, cross the fence down at the boulder or even down further through the gate. Continue up trail and you'll see the bee tree (see topo for location). Don't get too close!! There are no routes near the tree.
By BAd
Dec 31, 2010

I liked this route, but the four of us who climbed it recently consider the rating--5.8--to be a serious sandbag. Climb this route and compare it to the other 5.8's on Sweet and Trad Rock and you'll see what I mean. To be honest, it felt about 5.10a, maybe stout 5.9. The start was a bit chossy, but overall a good route. In short, 5.8 leaders, beware.
By Sam T.1
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 14, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I would disagree pretty strongly that this is a route for beginning leaders. First three bolts all involve awkward stances on thin holds, then the upper half gives no significant rest spots at any of the bolts. If you're fumbling with draws, you're going to wear out REAL fast while hanging on overhung crimps.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Mar 16, 2016

Thanks for the input Sam and agreed.

Description updated accordingly.

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