|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 150'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Jake Dayley, Della Fixsen 12/2011|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Year round|
|Page Views: ||943|
|Submitted By: ||Jake Dayley on Dec 2, 2012|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Manny Rangle leads the first pitch
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Pitch 1: 70 feet, 5.10. Obvious beautiful splitter, thin hands to hands to big hands. Belay in alcove off two bolts.
Pitch 2: 80 feet, 5.10+ Wild! Climb out of the alcove and stem/face climb up the corner (5.9) for 60ft on great rock to the roof. Do a wild move out right and continue up a steep 15 feet(crux), to a rest pod just below the final roof. Sink in some gear (extend as far as you dare), and commit to the final airy boulder problem exit out left. Belay on a ledge off of two bolts. Rappel the route with one 60m rope.
This route is in the sun until about 2PM
Approach: 40 mins or one hour. From the Soldiers Pass Trailhead hike north out of the parking lot on the 4WD dirt road (always stay straight) for about one mile until it ends. Or drive and park at the end.
Leave the road and get on the soldiers pass trail heading north. Follow it up the hill for 15-20 mins.
Just before the pass there is a slick rock area strewn with black rocks/debris. Leave the trail here and head up and left across the slick rock towards a tree with multiple large low branches. A faint trail takes off from here.
Follow this trail for about five minutes until it ends in a large slick rock area that runs to the West. Looking west from here you see a large butte formation. To its right is a shorter formation, they are separated by a gully. On the left side of the shorter formation is an obvious low-angle double splitter(picture). Tasmanian Devil is at the top of the small drainage to the right of this splitter. You can see the top half of it from here. The spire farther right is Alladinís lamp.
Hike the entire extent of the slick rock west heading towards the double splitter. At itís western extent, just before a pour off, head left up a wash marked by a cairn. Stay in this wash for a few hundred feet until a cairn marks a point where you climb out the bank to the right.
Go up the bank and follow a faint trail/cairns through forest and downhill until you are in a large wash with a cairn below the double splitter (picture)
Head up this wash towards the cliff following occasional cairns.
Leave the wash to the right just below the splitter and traverse under the formation across slick rock following cairns.
Follow cairns up the Tasmanian Devil drainage bearing right to avoid heinous debris.
Tasmanian Devil is at the top.
Rack is listed in Camalot sizes.
1 each .3, .4, .5, .75
2-3 each #1, #2, #3
5 each #4 (old 3.5 and 4 work too)
Anchors are bolted. Rap with one 60.
|By Kole DeCou|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 4, 2012
The corner pitch alone at least as good as Sedona's other classic 5.10 corners The Big Corner and Technicolor Corner. The first pitch being a quality splitter and the cool exit make it better in my opinion.
It's a little tricky to find. I'd recommend printing out the approach photos and scoping it out from the slick rock section of Soldiers Pass trail.
On a side note, approaching Aladdin's Lamp from the Coffee Pot side is probably quicker and easier than from the Dry Creek side.
|By Ryan Z|
Oct 12, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Great Sedona corner. The second pitch crux is 15 feet of business! I would hold back on bringing any small gear. I didn't place anything smaller than a #2 Camalot and have no idea where you place anything smaller than a #1. If I do it again I would bring doubles from #2-#3, (4) #4's and a single #5. Lots of runners definitely comes in handy. Get on it!
|By manuel rangel|
From: Tempe, Arizona
Oct 16, 2013
I used two #1 camalots to start first pitch. Kole used at least one #.75 camalot at the end.
|By Jake Dayley|
Nov 2, 2013
I placed equalized .75 and .5 Camelots in alcove just before the final roof. They are my last pieces. They are definitely optional and do add a bit of rope drag (even extended), but I wanted gear for those final moves! Good job just punching it for the top! The finger sized pieces are even more optional but you can get some in at least one spot in the OW corner to save you the weight of a big piece. Thanks for the picture of the tree, it's a difficult approach to describe so the more pictures the better.
|By Alex Wood|
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jan 27, 2014
Great beta on the approach. The only thing I would add is that when you finish walking the 4wd road and you are looking at the trail junction, take the trail on the left towards Soliders Pass (both trail signs say Soliders Pass Trail and both could be interpreted as north for the overthinker.. aka myself). Once we back tracked and got on the right Soliders Pass Trail, the approach beta was right on. The upper part (past the crux and before the exit) can be protected pretty well with #3's and a #4. The last few moves are way easier than they look. Awesome climb!