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Tasmania 


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Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 16, 2007

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Tasmania (in red)

Description 

Tasmania is an island roughly 1/4 the size of Colorado, located 125 miles south of the Australian continent. With a population less than half a million, this is a wild, rugged land with few signs of civilization and abundant wildlife. More than 1/3 of the island's land area is preserved in National Parks or World Heritage Sites.

In addition to its numerous scenic wonders, Australia's "Natural State" is the ideal venue for the adventure climber. The island's wild shores are lined with stacks of vertically-columned sea cliffs, and the inland mountains offer lifetimes worth of remote alpine adventures.

The Tasmanian rock climber is blessed with an abundance of dolerite, a course-grained relative of basalt. These volcanic remnants form in similar shapes to the basalt columns we North Americans are so familiar with, but the texture of the Tasmanian version is much more featured, offering much better friction and the occasional edge. The bulk of Tasmanian climbing is on dolerite, but the island also features quartzite, granite, and conglomerate crags.

The weather in Tasmania is an important consideration. With a climate and landscape similar to that of the coastal Pacific Northwest, rain is a common phenomenon. Temperatures are consistently moderate due to the coastal proximity, but snow is a common sight in the inland mountain ranges (reaching a height of 5300 feet). High winds are a possibility throughout the island, and sea-cliff climbers must be aware of tidal conditions and swells.


Getting There 

The easiest approach is via fixed-wing aircraft from Sydney or Melbourne. All of the major Australian carriers offer daily service to Hobart, Tasmania's captital city and cultural center. If you've got ample time, ferries also operate between Tasmania and the main continent.

A car is absolutely mandatory for the Tasmanian climber. Many rental agencies serve the Hobart airport. If on an extended trip that includes mainland Australia, consider purchasing a car in Sydney and taking the ferry to Tasmania.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tasmania:
Artemus   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Coastal Cliffs : Lassie's Wall
Pulpit Chimney   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 225 feet   Organ Pipes : Northern Buttress
Beowulf   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 105 feet   Coastal Cliffs : Deepwater Zawn
Centaur   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 157 feet   Organ Pipes : Northern Buttress
Harlequin   5.10a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Coastal Cliffs : Whitewater Wall
Sacred Site   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet   Fortescue Bay : The Moai
Rajah   5.10     Trad, 3 pitches, 262 feet   Ben Lomond : Frews Flutes
Antimatter   5.11b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 82 feet   Coastal Cliffs : The Star Factory
The Free Route   5.12b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet   Cape Hauy : The Totem Pole
Browse More Classics in Tasmania

Featured Route For Tasmania
Beginning pitch 1 of the Free Route during my on sight ascent in Dec 2004.  Note the white tag line, and the fixed rap line which will later be used for the Tyrolean exit.

The Free Route 5.12b PG13  International : Australia : ... : The Totem Pole
The original Free Route to the summit offers thrilling climbing and generally good protection on solid stone. P1, 80 feet, 5.12b. Begin on the belay rock, and ascend the left arete for several feet past two carrot bolts. The crux follows with a difficult, crimpy traverse to the right arete, passing two more carrots and an old aid bolt. Once on the right arete, things ease a bit. Continue the right-ward traverse past another carrot, then head up to a shallow finger crack which propigates fro...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Tasmania Slideshow Add Photo
Some key Tasmanian climbing centers.

Some key Tasmanian climbing centers.

the moai, 11- fortescue bay

the moai, 11- fortescue bay

moai, 5.9, fortescue bay

moai, 5.9, fortescue bay

moai, 5.9

moai, 5.9


Comments on Tasmania Add Comment
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By John Fischer
Dec 18, 2007

Hello All,

Two quick links for climbing beta: www.climb.org.au for route descriptions on mainland Australia. www.thesarvo.com for extensive beta on Tasmania. The climbing in Tassie is awesome!

Cheers,
John

By Byron Murray
Mar 23, 2008

The best time of year to visit Tassie is December and January. In addition to the web sites that John lists above there is a best of Tassie guide. Climb Tasmania "A Selected Best Guide" by Gerry Narkowicz. Note: Many of the routes in Tassie require double ropes and some doubles of gear. Be prepared for some challenging route finding. Best if you can hook up with a local to get acquainted with the area. Best if you can find a local on the internet or climbing gym. Possible to climb all day and not see another climbing party. I agree with John, the climbing in Tassie is awesome!

Byron from Boulder Colorado.

By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Apr 20, 2008

When my dad was a kid growing up in Tassie in the 30s and 40s, the entire southwestern part of the state was labelled "unexplored" on maps. Very cool place.