In the far right corner on this face, mantle past a ledge and up to good pod to reach the bottom of the crux section. I write "section" because it's rather strenuous and sustained for roughly 20 feet, and not just one or two moves. Keep working through it - and remember to stem.
The route is in the obvious book on the right-hand side of the face. After getting through the crux section, the climb backs off a great deal as it ascends a ramp to the left. Walk off from the top of the ramp.
Alternative descent: Almost halfway up the face on the climb to the left (Jane) are some slings than can be used to get off the route. A ledge facilitates the traverse from Tarzan.
Standard rack. The crack starts very wide and gets more narrow as your elevation increases.
I believe this climber is on the 5.9 to the right ...
|By J Antin|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 10, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A #4 Camalot will protect the area near the manky pin, but certainly not necessary.
Feb 13, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traditional finish is to move onto the face under the roof on the right at the top of the easy ramp. Move out right to clear roof and up crack, or continue right and finish on arete. Short but fun and more aesthetic finish.
From: Westerly, RI
May 10, 2011
I got a first hand lesson on why it's called Tarzan today. I was top rope soloing and slipped just under the crux. Mind you I put a sling on the horn coming down, but I still ended up swinging way over and a good 2-3 feet from the wall. I spent the next 35/40 minutes prussiking to the ramp. That did me in, and it didn't help that the black flies were waiting for me at the top. The morning was fine, once the day kicked in, they were a real bother. Awesome route.
From: Worcester, MA
Jan 3, 2012
Tarzan saw a serious fall in Fall/2011 when a climber decked from the crux "section." Something to keep in mind before trying this climb if 5.8 is your limit... this climb scares the crap out of me and I have not lead it yet. The climber did sustain serious injuries (obviously) but will recover.