Tarzan 5.12c/d
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Description Tarzan is the furthest left (West) route on the Highlander crag. It runs up a slab to a large roof that is passed via a truly unpleasant hand jam. A short face and another overlap lead up to the anchor. Frankly, I found the first roof distasteful, very painful, and I only top-ropped it. Funny thing is Alan dangled around a bit to get the beta, pulled the rope, and fired off the red point without so much as a word about the jam. Now I know for a fact that Alan feels pain as much as most of us, and after the red point burn his hand looked like it had been driven over by a fully loaded semi. Even a Neanderthal grunt would have revealed something about the roof move. Two stars because if you pull this off (not the hand, stupid!) then the rest is quite good climbing.
Protection 7 QDs and a rope. Double bolt anchor at the top.
By Richard M. Wright From: Lakewood, CO Aug 14, 2001
| Okay lads. Here is an attempt to get the numbering on one of the crags up to date with the published literature. I have used Mark Rolofson's guide to CC (1999) for the numbering of the Highlander Crag. This begins with "Tarzan" on the very left end of the crag as # 1 and swings right to # 34, "Geezer" on the far East face. This allows me to asign numbers to all known projects and recently added routes, and I believe this to be complete. However, if anyone knows of an un-published project here, please e-mail it to me and I'll fix the numbering accordingly. |
By chris way Aug 17, 2001
| Although the crack looks like an obvious solution to the roof, it's quite dirty and i managed to climb it without using a jam at all. If you plan on climbing this route don't have a second person do the cleaning - the drag is terrible. The climb needs a date with a brush. |
By Joe Keyser From: Scottsdale, AZ May 19, 2003
| Pulling accross the roof with the crack isn't so bad. But, pulling over the lip onto the face above wasn't happening for me! I had to leave a nice biner up there if anyone wants it... |
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