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Tarot Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 
Devil, The S 
Earth Angel S 
Fapanese Direct S 
Fool, The S 
Goat F***er S 
Hanged Man, The S 
Horse, The T,S 
Lust S 
Magician, The T,S 
S.I.N. T 
Tower, The S 
Wheel of Fortune S 

Tarot Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.999, -105.4122 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,782
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006

62° | 40°

62° | 43°

58° | 41°

60° | 40°

64° | 42°

62° | 39°
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BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note:...

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


Tarot Wall is the leftmost area on the Second Tier. Home to a number of good 5.10 and 5.11 sport routes, including The Devil (11c), Lust (10c), The Tower (10a), and Wheel of Fortune (10a). Earth Angel (12d) is a difficult testpiece that has seen very few ascents.

A fun new route, The Magician (9 or 10), climbs an arete at the left side of Tarot Wall.


A. The Magician, 9 or 10, 1p, 80', gear & bolts. Cracks, arete, face, roof.
B. Ah Ya Punter, 11, 1p, gear. LFD & roof.
C. Earth Angel, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts. Face, roof, and arete on left.
D. Fapanese Direct, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
E. The Constant Gardener, 12+, 1p, bolts.
F. The Devil, 11, 1p, 70', bolts. Steep, bulging face.
G. Lust, 10, 1p, 90', bolts, steep face.
H. The Fool, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Awkward at start.
I. The Tower, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts. Long, varied, enjoyable.
J. S.I.N., 10, 1p, 90', gear.
K. Wheel of Fortune, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts. Corner, roof, steep face.
L. The Horse, 10+, 1p, 60', bolt & gear. Overhang to cracks.
M. The Hanged Man, 10, 1p, 50', bolts. Brief overhang to face.

On a short wall by the talus field approach:

N. Goat F***ker, 12-, 25', bolts. Quartz dike.

Getting There 

Climb up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt trail starts at the top of the talus. Continue up the trail a short distance until the trail splits; take the left branch to get to Tarot Wall. Follow the trail left around a shoulder to the road side of the crag. The first route you'll see is The Hanged Man at a low overhang with a bolt.

If you started your day climbing on the First Tier, you can continue up the path left from there and reach the left side of Tarot Wall, by the route Earth Angel.

Also on the left side of Tarot Wall is a trail heading downstream toward Solaris.

See the Beta Photo for details.

Climbing Season

For the Second Tier area.

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Tarot Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Tarot Wall:
Wheel of Fortune   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Tower   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lust   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Devil   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness)   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Fapanese Direct   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Earth Angel   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Tarot Wall

Featured Route For Tarot Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Earth Angel is the leftmost bolted route on Tarot ...

Earth Angel 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Tarot Wall
Avalon's first and hardest sport route, Earth Angel, is the stunning arĂȘte/face on the far left side of Tarot Wall. It's hard to believe a route this good hasn't seen a second ascent (as per Rolofson's new guide book) until today; however, we did find the route somewhat dirty and lichen-covered in places so it is possible. Face climb past 3 bolts to a good stance below the roof. Crank over the roof (12a) and ascend the very sustained and technical face above. A wild dynamic move (...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Tarot Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.
BETA PHOTO: The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.
Rock Climbing Photo: While belaying, always make sure you are paying at...
While belaying, always make sure you are paying at...

Comments on Tarot Wall Add Comment
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By Bruno D
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 2, 2011
Someone left some climbing shoes here on Saturday July me if they are yours 973 255 0862.

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