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 ADVANCED
Dead Tree Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Grace T,TR 
CMC Lives, The TR 
Dead Tree Crack T,TR 
Defeat of the DLFA Boys TR 
Dr. Who T 
Fecal Maneuvers In the Dark T,TR 
Tardis T,TR 

Tardis 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ???
Season: Spring,Summer,Fall
Page Views: 1,306
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on May 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Jon pulling the top moves on Tardis. Just plain w...

Description 

Not to be missed! 10 Ft. right of Dead Tree Route. Crux is the first 15 feet- a thin tips crack with tricky smears for the feet on left and toe scum in crack opening on the right. Stab for jug above. Excellent pro abounds. Then follow very interesting crack and edges line to top. There is a second and mid way crux when making move from large flake on left up to cool mantle ledge. Upper moves are stellar as well and the whole thing is OK protected... there are a few spots one has to go a body length without protection.

Location 

Right side of Dead Tree Wall.

Protection 

One fixed pin towards top of the route. Small to medium wires, small three cams, Ball nuts.


Photos of Tardis Slideshow Add Photo
JW leads the wonderful "Tardis"
JW leads the wonderful "Tardis"
Vince, finishing it up.
Vince, finishing it up.
Jerry Tops out on Tardis.  Check that zig zag out!
Jerry Tops out on Tardis. Check that zig zag out!
Vince.
Vince.
Vince getting to the middle crux.
Vince getting to the middle crux.

Comments on Tardis Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 21, 2014
By Merlin
From: Grand Junction
Dec 4, 2006

Time and Relative Dimensions in Space?
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 5, 2006

A British phone booth capable of going backward or forward in time?
And from what I have seen capable of geting the user in all sorts of trouble. With Daleks? Exterminate!
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Dec 6, 2006

Perhaps the crack is larger on the inside than it is on the outside?
By mattso
Feb 4, 2007

I have climbed at the lake a lot and thought I ticked all the 5.10 leadable routes, What and where is dead tree crack and where is tardis? Are these the correct names? Help me James or Jay did I ever climb this route.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 4, 2007

Mattso, (or should I call you Marmatt?), I don't think you ever did this route. By all accounts, Dead Tree Wall is way, way off the beaten path. I've never done it, though I think I should have.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 12, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Jay, Dead Tree Wall is right off the West Bluff Trail just north of Lost Face. Next time you come out to WI, we will have to get you on this climb. It was really good climbing.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Good variation to Tardis starts about 8 feet right of the finger crack and bypasses the crux at about 5.9
By Tradoholic
Sep 3, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

This was a tough one! I sailed the bottom thinking the rest was "5.9". I was right, I was left, I was sketched out over a #000 C3, it was slightly epic. I think more like 5.10 climbing the whole way.

I placed a #2 Ballnut left of the fixed pin to back it up.

Did you guys go straight up the crack system? I zig-zaged all over the face.
By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Sep 4, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I went straight up from the beginning crack utilizing the big bulge with my left hand and going for the ledge. From the pin I went diagonally up and left to the top. I had a similar experience as I attempted this climb ground up. I pulled the bottom crux and thought I was done only to fall at the second crux getting to the ledge. There is awesome feeling of exposure on this climb as you finish up above the pin.
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jun 8, 2011

had a hard time pulling the 10b crux off the deck, so i led the 5.9 varition which starts 10' to the right and links back to tardis after about 12'. The route is somewhat spicy from start to finish, a good lead.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 21, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great lead! The protection is good all the way too.