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King Otto's Castle
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Tarawassie Wiggle 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Beck, Dave Tapes (AKA: Dave Wonderly) & Alan Nelson, December 1982
Page Views: 726
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Al Swanson on "Tarawassie Wiggle". Photo...

Description 

Run up easy but unprotected slab to the base of a headwall where the real climbing starts, fire in some good wires and launch up the featured face above. The climb wanders around a bit finding the best gear placements and holds and near the top peters out into unprotected (but easier) face climbing. Perhaps a little spicy but adequately protected for those solid at the grade. Two stars out of five.

Location 

Right side of the south face between Sweat Band and Plain But Good Hearted.

Protection 

Gear to 1.5" including many wires, 2 bolt anchor/rap


Photos of Tarawassie Wiggle Slideshow Add Photo
Tarawassie Wiggle and Leaving Las Vegas
BETA PHOTO: Tarawassie Wiggle and Leaving Las Vegas

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By Woody Stark
Mar 12, 2003

Bill Briggs and I climbed this route recently. We both felt it was overrated. Bill felt 5.9; and I,leading, felt 10a. It's a great route; and,with the exception of the traverse at the top, easy to protect.
By Woody Stark
Nov 21, 2003

One more comment: this route takes small wires all the way; and they're bombers if you take the time to place them well. It's a great route for learning to place the tiny guys. Also, make sure you have a good piece in before you start the traverse; you've a way to go.
By TraiseB
Mar 1, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is an awesome route! I just led it for the first time last month. Just make sure you have LOTS of small to tiny brass stoppers on your rack! I also had some small aleins and cams. The pro was pretty good until the exit move which, although pretty easy, was scarey to run out on a brass nut! Let's just say I got my arenaline rush for the day.I could see adding a bolt at the top, but I didn't get the first ascent. None the less, I thought was awesome and I would like to do it again. By the way, you do use all removeable gear, but it is mainly excellent face climbing.
By Bob Gaines
Dec 17, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of my favorites. 10a to lead, 5.9 on a toprope. The runnout at the top is probably 5.8 R.