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Good page? (1 like)
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10a [details]|
|FA: ||Mike Beck, Dave Tapes (AKA: Dave Wonderly) & Alan Nelson, December 1982|
|Submitted By: ||C Miller on Jun 26, 2002|
Al Swanson on "Tarawassie Wiggle".
Photo by Blitzo...
Run up easy but unprotected slab to the base of a headwall where the real climbing starts, fire in some good wires and launch up the featured face above. The climb wanders around a bit finding the best gear placements and holds and near the top peters out into unprotected (but easier) face climbing. Perhaps a little spicy but adequately protected for those solid at the grade. Two stars out of five.
Right side of the south face between Sweat Band and Plain But Good Hearted.
Gear to 1.5" including many wires, 2 bolt anchor/rap
BETA PHOTO: Tarawassie Wiggle and Leaving Las Vegas
|Comments on Tarawassie Wiggle
|By Woody Stark|
Mar 12, 2003
Bill Briggs and I climbed this route recently. We both felt it was overrated. Bill felt 5.9; and I,leading, felt 10a. It's a great route; and,with the exception of the traverse at the top, easy to protect.
|By Woody Stark|
Nov 21, 2003
One more comment: this route takes small wires all the way; and they're bombers if you take the time to place them well. It's a great route for learning to place the tiny guys. Also, make sure you have a good piece in before you start the traverse; you've a way to go.
Mar 1, 2004
This is an awesome route! I just led it for the first time last month. Just make sure you have LOTS of small to tiny brass stoppers on your rack! I also had some small aleins and cams. The pro was pretty good until the exit move which, although pretty easy, was scarey to run out on a brass nut! Let's just say I got my arenaline rush for the day.I could see adding a bolt at the top, but I didn't get the first ascent. None the less, I thought was awesome and I would like to do it again. By the way, you do use all removeable gear, but it is mainly excellent face climbing.
|By Bob Gaines|
Dec 17, 2007
One of my favorites. 10a to lead, 5.9 on a toprope. The runnout at the top is probably 5.8 R.