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Unsorted Routes:

Tarantella 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lisa McKee
Page Views: 3,394
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jan 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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BETA PHOTO: Climber headed for rest stop #2 on Tarantella (5.1...

Description 

Climb the left face of the corner (sometimes wet) and clip the first bolt while hanging from a ledge. Clamber up onto the ledge for a nice rest, and clip the second bolt. Now reach down and unclip the first bolt to avoid rope drag later down the road. Wander up the right face of the corner, past another lovely rest ledge on the arete, to anchors near the top.

Location 

One of the first climbs you encounter when walking in. Starts in a left-facing corner.

Protection 

9 bolts, anchors


Photos of Tarantella Slideshow Add Photo
Lots of fun
Lots of fun
Tarantela at obed
Tarantela at obed
at the anchors.
at the anchors.
Clipping stance for bolt numero uno! Not too hard ...
BETA PHOTO: Clipping stance for bolt numero uno! Not too hard ...
Im a trad fan but this is one of my favorite route...
Im a trad fan but this is one of my favorite route...
This is one seriously awesome 5.10! Copyright Denn...
This is one seriously awesome 5.10! Copyright Denn...
Tarantella
BETA PHOTO: Tarantella

Comments on Tarantella Add Comment
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is an outstanding lead, one of the highlights of my latest Obed trip. Fairly sustained, but there are good rests along the way. The moves off the first rest ledge skirting the roof felt like the crux of the climb for me.

Stick clipping is not a bad idea, but you'll need a pretty long pole.
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Oct 15, 2012

Just a heads up, there's a mistake in the guide book where this route and the .12a beside it can easily be confused, although it won't take long to realize you're not on a .10a.
By Rachael429
From: Chattanooga, TN
Oct 23, 2012

This is an awesome lead!
By Jeff Edge
Mar 13, 2013

Definitely watch out for that mixup in that shiny new guidebook, especially since that 12a next door has a high first bolt with a difficult section up to it...trust me I fell off it completely baffled by the difficulty of these "10a" moves. Further inspection of the photographs in the guidebook revealed the problem. Fun route, once you're on it...
By Austin Eddy
From: Knoxville, TN
Feb 23, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

According to the guidebook, the route that everyone is doing is Alien. Is that a mistake in the book? Is there a route where Tarantella is shown in the guidebook? What is it rated?
By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
May 19, 2014

Yes, I think there is a mistake in the picture of the Obed guidebook. It seems that route #4 pictured in the guidebook is Tarantella, not Alien. The photos on MP seem to show the correct route line of Tarantella.
By Cassi Haggard
Nov 11, 2014

I'm very grateful I checked here before heading to the Obed. I was told this was a must-do 10a and we wouldn't have known the guidebook was wrong without this page. Probably the most fun 10a I've lead with really interesting movement.