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Climb the left face of the corner (sometimes wet) and clip the first bolt while hanging from a ledge. Clamber up onto the ledge for a nice rest, and clip the second bolt. Now reach down and unclip the first bolt to avoid rope drag later down the road. Wander up the right face of the corner, past another lovely rest ledge on the arete, to anchors near the top.
One of the first climbs you encounter when walking in. Starts in a left-facing corner.
9 bolts, anchors
Tarantela at obed
Lots of fun
This is one seriously awesome 5.10! Copyright Denn...
BETA PHOTO: Clipping stance for bolt numero uno! Not too hard ...
Im a trad fan but this is one of my favorite route...
at the anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Tarantella
From: Decatur, GA
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This is an outstanding lead, one of the highlights of my latest Obed trip. Fairly sustained, but there are good rests along the way. The moves off the first rest ledge skirting the roof felt like the crux of the climb for me.
Stick clipping is not a bad idea, but you'll need a pretty long pole.
|By Seth Derr|
From: harrisburg, pa
Oct 15, 2012
Just a heads up, there's a mistake in the guide book where this route and the .12a beside it can easily be confused, although it won't take long to realize you're not on a .10a.
From: Chattanooga, TN
Oct 23, 2012
This is an awesome lead!
|By Jeff Edge|
Mar 13, 2013
Definitely watch out for that mixup in that shiny new guidebook, especially since that 12a next door has a high first bolt with a difficult section up to it...trust me I fell off it completely baffled by the difficulty of these "10a" moves. Further inspection of the photographs in the guidebook revealed the problem. Fun route, once you're on it...