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Taping cam slings

Original Post
Dylan Carey · · TX · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 558

I came across this advice a few days ago, and wanted to see what yall thought. The advice is on Steph Davis' website in a trad racking post:

"The most important, and also simplest tip, is to tape the cam sling just below the biner. There is nothing more annoying (and desperate), than slamming in a cam off of one arm, while in a layback position, and having the biner flip upside down so you have to spend an extra few seconds (and possibly your chance at getting the rope clipped into it) hanging on and turning the biner around. Believe me, it can make you want to cry. And ruin your send. I have found that inevitably, if I am too lazy to tape one cam, that will be the one that I desperately place from a horrible stance in a crux, and the biner will flip after I place it. Always. Some people think the fixed biner end will be irritating when needing to extend the cam length with a sling, but it is not. Just carry your shoulder-lengths around your chest with a biner already hanging on each one, and then all you have to do to extend the piece is clip the sling to the cam biner. Tape isn’t just for hands"

link: highinfatuation.com/blog/ca…

I've tried it and like it, one annoying thing is extending with an alpine draw

pic

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

I don't climb hard enough for the difference between me climbing a route and not is the flipping of a biner around. You can clip the rope in either position too.

I do have my alpine draws pre-extended over my shoulder, which is the way to go. I realized it was really annoying having to clip a biner to the cam sling and then try to fumble with removing two of the three lengths. It also means carrying around extra biners that are just dead weight.

Alex Mitchell · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 2,367
Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote:I don't climb hard enough for the difference between me climbing a route and not is the flipping of a biner around. You can clip the rope in either position too. I do have my alpine draws pre-extended over my shoulder, which is the way to go. I realized it was really annoying having to clip a biner to the cam sling and then try to fumble with removing two of the three lengths. It also means carrying around extra biners that are just dead weight.
Until you are hanging off of one arm and that is the arm that the sling needs to slide over. Then you have to switch hands. I always dont extend the sling either.
Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78

If you are using cams almost exclusively (as in wingate sandstone), then this makes a bit of sense. Personally, I don't do this, as I prefer to have full trad draws for nuts and other things, and strongly prefer not having slings around my shoulder wherever possible.

Edit, I wrote something dumb.

Matt Marino · · Georgetown, MA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 10

I do this and like it. I usually have full alpine draws and shoulder slings so I haven't run into the slings vs. draws issue. I'm sure someone could make the case that i'm carrying to much gear/dead weight but if i really cared enough about a few ounces i should probably just go on a diet. My partner hates the tape so I'm going to keep doing it until he snaps.

Rohan de Launey · · South Lake Tahoe · Joined May 2012 · Points: 15

Drives me nuts when my partners gear is like this... It's whatever your used to.. IMHO a biner flipping is not such a big deal..you can avoid/control it pretty good b/c u pull it off your harness by the biner.

Dave Alie · · Golden, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 75
Alex Mitchell wrote: Until you are hanging off of one arm and that is the arm that the sling needs to slide over. Then you have to switch hands.
The solution to this is to have one (more than one works as well, but I find it to be a pain) carabiner per long sling, run the sling around your shoulder the clip the sling such that both ends are into the carabiner. That way you don't have to slide the sling over either arm as you can unclip the carabiner (usually with either hand) and pull the sling off.
Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78
Dave Alie wrote: The solution to this is to have one (more than one works as well, but I find it to be a pain) carabiner per long sling, run the sling around your shoulder the clip the sling such that both ends are into the carabiner. That way you don't have to slide the sling over either arm as you can unclip the carabiner (usually with either hand) and pull the sling off.
Only works for 120cm (double length) slings, unless you are a tiny, tiny person.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

my desert rack is set up like this, but sometimes it screws thing up when you insert the cam in the best orientation, but the biner isn't in the best orientation (like gate over an edge) and you can't flip the biner.

i used a bunch of the rubber petz'l pieces that come with quickdraws. more durable than tape.

MTKirk · · Billings, MT · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 245

I do this with ordinary rubber bands from the drug store, that way there's no adhesive residue left on my slings. I buy the kind that are natural gum rubber, they don't last long but when they fall off they biodegrade quickly. It isn't a problem extending with a draw, just leave the racking 'biner in place & clip above the rubber band, when you fall the rubber band breaks & it's just like it was never there. I find this essential at the creek, I've taken many a whip from trying to make a desperate clip only to realize the 'biners flipped around. A guy who watched me whip pointed out his cams and explained why he had them all taped, AHAA!

I don't do this with rope end 'biners on trad draws, I think it could be a bad idea.

AndrewFranklin · · San Fransisco · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 40

Im guessing this is meant for her style of climbing which is usually completely vertical splitters where you would not really be moving left or right more than a few feet. I say do what works for you and the types of routes you tend to climb.

AndrewFranklin · · San Fransisco · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 40

Im guessing this is meant for her style of climbing which is usually completely vertical splitters where you would not really be moving left or right more than a few feet. I say do what works for you and the types of routes you tend to climb.

Peter Hurtgen · · Dallas, TX · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 110

learn how to clip a biner upside down then u dont have to flip it....

Lewis Loader · · Calgary, AB · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 47

I feel as if this applies here... vimeo.com/4138205
Not to say I don't do the same thing(just with elastic bands/O-rings) on my dragons, to help with the sling extension..

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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