Taping cam slings
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I came across this advice a few days ago, and wanted to see what yall thought. The advice is on Steph Davis' website in a trad racking post: |
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I don't climb hard enough for the difference between me climbing a route and not is the flipping of a biner around. You can clip the rope in either position too. |
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Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote:I don't climb hard enough for the difference between me climbing a route and not is the flipping of a biner around. You can clip the rope in either position too. I do have my alpine draws pre-extended over my shoulder, which is the way to go. I realized it was really annoying having to clip a biner to the cam sling and then try to fumble with removing two of the three lengths. It also means carrying around extra biners that are just dead weight.Until you are hanging off of one arm and that is the arm that the sling needs to slide over. Then you have to switch hands. I always dont extend the sling either. |
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If you are using cams almost exclusively (as in wingate sandstone), then this makes a bit of sense. Personally, I don't do this, as I prefer to have full trad draws for nuts and other things, and strongly prefer not having slings around my shoulder wherever possible. |
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I do this and like it. I usually have full alpine draws and shoulder slings so I haven't run into the slings vs. draws issue. I'm sure someone could make the case that i'm carrying to much gear/dead weight but if i really cared enough about a few ounces i should probably just go on a diet. My partner hates the tape so I'm going to keep doing it until he snaps. |
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Drives me nuts when my partners gear is like this... It's whatever your used to.. IMHO a biner flipping is not such a big deal..you can avoid/control it pretty good b/c u pull it off your harness by the biner. |
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Alex Mitchell wrote: Until you are hanging off of one arm and that is the arm that the sling needs to slide over. Then you have to switch hands.The solution to this is to have one (more than one works as well, but I find it to be a pain) carabiner per long sling, run the sling around your shoulder the clip the sling such that both ends are into the carabiner. That way you don't have to slide the sling over either arm as you can unclip the carabiner (usually with either hand) and pull the sling off. |
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Dave Alie wrote: The solution to this is to have one (more than one works as well, but I find it to be a pain) carabiner per long sling, run the sling around your shoulder the clip the sling such that both ends are into the carabiner. That way you don't have to slide the sling over either arm as you can unclip the carabiner (usually with either hand) and pull the sling off.Only works for 120cm (double length) slings, unless you are a tiny, tiny person. |
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my desert rack is set up like this, but sometimes it screws thing up when you insert the cam in the best orientation, but the biner isn't in the best orientation (like gate over an edge) and you can't flip the biner. |
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I do this with ordinary rubber bands from the drug store, that way there's no adhesive residue left on my slings. I buy the kind that are natural gum rubber, they don't last long but when they fall off they biodegrade quickly. It isn't a problem extending with a draw, just leave the racking 'biner in place & clip above the rubber band, when you fall the rubber band breaks & it's just like it was never there. I find this essential at the creek, I've taken many a whip from trying to make a desperate clip only to realize the 'biners flipped around. A guy who watched me whip pointed out his cams and explained why he had them all taped, AHAA! |
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Im guessing this is meant for her style of climbing which is usually completely vertical splitters where you would not really be moving left or right more than a few feet. I say do what works for you and the types of routes you tend to climb. |
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Im guessing this is meant for her style of climbing which is usually completely vertical splitters where you would not really be moving left or right more than a few feet. I say do what works for you and the types of routes you tend to climb. |
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learn how to clip a biner upside down then u dont have to flip it.... |
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I feel as if this applies here... vimeo.com/4138205 |